Hi All What am I missing?! I'm sorry for what is probably a stupid question but how do I get to the rear caliper bolts on a Monster 1200? The swing arm seems to be in the way so there's no way I can get a hex socket in there and even T bars go in at such an angle it doesn't look like they'd work. Is there a special tool or something? Cheers!
Don’t have a monster 1200 but a 1098 single sider And as you say not possible to get a hex socket in but it should be possible to extract the two bolts with a hex right angled key. Don’t use a ball end type which can knacker the head. Chances are it’s tight so extend the Allen key with a ring spanner to get more leverage.
Yep. That's all I can get to fit too, I haven't undone them yet as wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything. I'm surprised as there's no way I could check the torque when tightening them back up, etc.
I’ve an 1100S and use a long Allen key. No way you’ll get a T-bar one in properly. Same on my 748. As mentioned above, if it’s not been removed for some time it’ll be stiff so use an extension tube if you can get it in there. Once off I don’t use a torque wrench to reinstall as it can’t get in, just tighten as tight as possible by hand
Just checked my 1098. It’s possible to remove the front bolt and re torque but in the case of the rear bolt the sprocket gets in the way however it’s possible using a 3/8 drive and wrench to re torque. The monster must be different with bolts closer to swing arm but I’m sure possible with Allen key and then tighten albeit without torque. Firm believer in using torque wrenches but sometimes it’s difficult and just tighten to a level I’m comfortable with. Not that I think it’s necessary but if you you really want to re torque it’s possible to make a special tool easily. Assuming you can fit a right angled Allen key then drill a hole of the same diameter in a 3/8 drive socket through the body - I always purchase a really cheap socket which in general won’t be fully hardened. It’s important you drill this in line with the flats of the drive. Slide over the Allen key and then fit your torque wrench at right angle to the Allen key. Drilling the holes in line with the flats means you are at right angles to the applied load and hence no extra leverage to consider. Use torque setting as supplied by Ducati.
I can live without torquing the bolts personally I just can't help but wonder how the dealership would do it. It seems so poorly designed almost like an afterthought.
I use a long 3/8 extension bar and a short Allen socket (Halfords), no problem although I have binned the stock bolts for titanium tapered cap heads
I always remove the wheel and use a ⅜ ratchet handle, extension bars and a hex socket. The first time I did it the calliper bolts was so tight I ended up making a mess of the head. So I took the rear sprocket off and that gave me loads of access, but since I replaced the calliper bolts and put a bit of copper grease on the threads also torqued them to 20nm I have no problems with them anymore.
It's for a Multistrada but should be useful as it also has Brembo M50's. Starts at the 5:00 min mark.
A lot depends upon where the hub is positioned in the s/arm as the caliper hanger follows the eccentric. Slacken the chain off and unhook it off the rear sprocket. Then rotate the hub to improve access.
