Not quite sure what the catch is, or even if there is one but thought i would pass this on :- New Rectifier DUCATI 996 1999-2003 | eBay Maybe someone has bought and fitted one by now and could comment. (no connection with sale) EDIT Make sure you read Nelson's post below as these might be too good to be true..
Hi Chris, I bought one and returned it. The white connector isn't correct, so I made some jumpers up (no biggy) when connected it put out a good voltage, but it did run flippin' hot! I wasn't content to keep it. The company were exceptionally and took it back without a quibble (good word quibble, going to use that more often). Hope this helps...:smile:
I think we are all aware of Electrex by now - shame they can't make the prices more reasonable - I would sooner buy a quality Shindengen Mosfet conversion than shell out for one of those myself. Just been politely tipped off that above pattern Regulator has caused one person to return it so coupled with Nelson's experience, I think the jury is 'in' on this one - hope everyone reads the entire thread. P.S. do you have shares in the company Andy?
A mate of mine was running an RR51 on his bike and thought it was getting too hot, so instead of making the aluminium back plate to get rid of heat, he found a 'blown' RR51 and cut the wires off, then bolted the two back to back onto the frame....live one in front. AL
yes - been recommending them for many years now, unfortunately i'm after a single phase myself at the mo. Good idea AL ^ - these look identical (but who knows?) to the Electrex units (and £20 cheaper) :- Kawasaki Suzuki Laverda Ducati Rectifier Regulator | eBay
Chris, I would say that looks identical to the two wire RR51......at least the wires are all the same colour etc etc. AL
I would personally recommend the R1 Shindengen Mosfet conversion, it was one of the first things I did, don't forget to upgrade the wiring from the generator too! Tidy
Chris will remember the problems that I had with mine and ended up with this to try and disipate the heat. Believe it or not the heat dissipation of the added heat sink exceeds the capacity of the regulator casting and alloy plate. All bits from Maplins including heat conductive paste. However I then measured the resistance across the new AC connector pins and got 0.5ohms on each phase which is quite an effective heat generator to start a destructive cycle of heat increased resistance and load so I soldered the yellow wires through. Since then the regulator barely gets warm in normal use and never gets that hot. I am convinced that the most common failure of these regulators is due to the connector resistance going out of spec due to poor, dirty or corroding contacts and a resulting imbalanced load causing additional load on the generator coils. The connectors slowly cook and fail taking the whole system down. The best thing to ensure reliability is to get rid of them (whether they are plugs or bullets) replace them with clamping connectors or solder the wires then heat shrink them. Really big bullet connectors is not a reliable alternative especially if they are crimped badly Contrary to the widely held belief, the wires on the AC side of the rectifier (from the generator coils) are of adequate size if the system is running as it should be with no high resistances along the way. This is why Shindenghen and Electrex use the wire guage that they do.
Totally agree Steve and have been posting the same for years. The original Regulators are often blamed for failure and if a replacement is fitted with the remaining overheated/damaged wiring still in place then the next could fail early (and also get the blame). I have swapped out several regulators with enough patina to convince me that they were the original units - I think a Regulator that lasts around 17 years can't have any major flaws myself.
