Push Rod Seal Replacement Help

I would see if you can get an aftermarket part for your bike, I fitted one to my Monster years ago (can't remember the make) and it was fine for years.

 

Heresy, not sure Ducati sell the slave seals but that does not mean you can't get them from somewhere else, they usually just supply a new cylinder which are pretty expensive but you can get the two o rings on the push rod. Is the slave definitely leaking or is it engine oil coming down the pushrod? Do you have black fluid running down the case or is it cleaner engine oil and does the master cylinder need topping up regularly, if the answer to those is no then you may just need the two $0.65 o rings.

 

I’ve never had a 900SS but I’m assuming it’s a dry clutch too? If so no probs. When you remove the slave cylinder you can pull the push rod out from that side and thus replace the 2 o-rings on it. If it won’t pull out from the slave cylinder side which is a 50/50 thing (as it may be stuck in its ‘top hat‘ which sits in the pressure plate bearing, then simply remove the clutch cover (4 bolts), undo the 6 bolts that retain the springs that retain the pressure plate and pull the pressure plate off. The push rod will come with it, you can replace the o rings then reassemble it all. 10-15 minute job.

 

If you want to replace the slave cyl seal I'm pretty sure that it's this one.

 

The boot is to keep out muck & shite thrown off the chain. If it’s split then replace that as well. If it were me, I’d pull out the pushrod and inspect the o rings, as Denzil said above they’re cheap enough to replace, just make sure you get the correct viton oil/petrol resistant ones.

The fluid in the clutch master cylinder always goes gets darker and eventually goes black, the fluid in the brake master cylinders never does, I have no idea why, it’s the same stuff. I have some theories but they’re not for here & now.

 

as long as your piston and bore aren't heavily corroded* then all should be fine as detailed in replies. All I would add is that sometimes piston is reluctant to come out despite mechanical spring, and sometimes this is a clue re:* Also "dust" seal 27 means well but is only an ornament. It starts off ok from new but soon makes little difference whether fitted or not.

 

You’ll only have to open the clutch side if you can’t pull the pushrod out from the slave cylinder side. However, depending on how frequently and how well the clutch has been serviced in the past this is a distinct possibility but don’t worry, it’s easy, and being a dry clutch you don’t have to drain the oil

When you remove the 2 small o rings from the push rod remove the innermost one first, it will then roll over the outermost one and won’t get stuck in the groove. When putting the new ones on wet them with a little engine oil and roll them on from the slave cylinder side of the rod ie the short side. When the first drops into the groove leave it there, the second, the innermost one, will then roll over it and not get stuck in the groove.

Keep us posted

 

I agree with Chris Re the rubber boot, dust seal. Re corrosion, even if it is corroded (here’s one below with corrosion) provided the corrosion is not around the o ring’s grooves you can clean it up with some emery cloth, progressively finer wet & dry, and wire wool, then reuse it until you can get hold of a replacement (or not).

 

You are right, pushrod can corrode as well Paul, and at times, just randomly or from neglect it can go undetected that it's having a hard life as sticking or increased stiffness gets ignored. I've never had it happen, but can even separate into two parts at needle roller bearing in worst scenario.

 

There was someone on here iirc (but can’t remember who) had one break into two in the middle ie it came out in two halves, one from each side. That’s got to be unusual though?

@Heresy23 post a picture of your pushrod when you get it out.

 

The pushrod only comes out clutch side(and while your there renew pressure plate bearing ,while doing it, or at least check the condition, easy job)and the clutch fluid in the reservoir always goes black, it's normal.But as regards to the leak of oil i couldn't say but i'm sure you will get to and sort out the problem.

 

The pushrod can come out from both sides, or at least should, at least in my experience. In reality it very often gets stuck in its ‘top hat’ which sits in the pressure plate bearing and thus can only be removed from the clutch side. Good point about checking the bearing in the pressure plate, may as well while it’s off

 

To be totally honest honest iv'e never tried to take mine out slave cylinder side always found it easier to do it clutch side to check the bearing while i'm at it plates etc and no quick release fixings on fairing, pain in the arse to take off unlike the 996.

 

It’s unusual but have seen it described at least half a dozen times, come across many ragged and worn needle roller bearings that have worn away pushrod. It only takes a corrosion “hotspot “ to occur at needle roller bearing through little use or stored in damp for it to start binding and then breaking up often undetected or ignored because thought to be stiffness at the plates et cetera et cetera.

 

Likewise here, often it just comes out with the pressure plate.

Also @Heresy23 you may as well check the clutch plates and basket for how much life left while in there. Oh oh, this is turning into more than a 10 min job , way of the world with older bikes/cars/houses/anything