Hi. So let me start from the very beginning.... 2 weeks ago on my 2000 900 SS I noticed when I would hit my start button my starter wouldn’t even turn over. But if I tapped on the frame with my fist while I was trying to hit start it would turn over (sounds like your typical starter problem except I wasn’t banging on the starter) well that only lasted a couple days. Turn the bike was back to normal never had a problem. And all of a sudden Last week i’m riding and I must’ve lost spark because the bike just stopped running and I coasted over to a parking lot. Check my plugs and I was getting no spark. I get towed home. I pull the plugs out give them a little sanding (they were fine looking ) put them back in bam my bike works again. I was afraid to ride it for a couple days so I rode my 750. Well when I decided to go take the 900 out same shit happened. But I noticed I would give it throttle and all of a sudden it would have like barely Have any power Go onto the wheeland then all of a sudden a bunch of power. And then Bam no spark again. Pull the plugs out while I was waiting for the tow truck played with stuff you know jiggled wires look for loose connections. Nothing I just pulled the plugs out again put them back in and it worked. Actually I decide to change them again. But the more and more I think about it it looks like more of a faulty ignition switch problem. i’m gonna go ride around the top of my street and I’m sure it will be fine just like last time as soon as I actually take it far away from my house I don’t trust it. I want to add that I’m not one of those guys Who lets their oil get low. But I noticed the oil was very very low. I’ve never ever in my whole life had oil that low in one of my bikes . but I have a lot of bikes and I somehow I just wasn’t paying enough attention. To note I just Overhauled my Clutch slave cylinder and the redid the flywheel cover gasket like maybe four weeks ago didn’t have any problems though until recently. Figured I’d ask you guys and maybe someone out there can put together all the symptoms and give me pinpointed a little bit better as I start to check this whole system out. Thanks again
Had a similar issue on my Monster 600 although this isn't an injection model. It suffered running on one cylinder then suddenly cut back in, problem goes away for weeks at a time but gradually gets worse. Turned out to be a failing ignition pickup coil which is incidentally under the flywheel. When you had the cover off, are you sure you didn't knock the wiring or disturb the pickup in some way? They are adjustable to get the correct 'air gap' from the bulge on the flywheel. If it's moved the flywheel may not be triggering a spark? Not sure if the injection bikes use a pickup coil or if they use another sensor to trigger the ECU as to the crank position, but it may be worth looking in that kind of area. I'm sure someone with more experience of these 'modern' electrickery Dukes will be along shortly to offer more advice!
Loose or badly corroded earth terminals? There are several. Dodgy kill switch? Dodgy ignition wiring behind key? Those are where I’d start looking
If the ignition switch was dodgy everything would go off. No starter, lights, horn, indicators, ECU, sparks, etc. If the kill switch is dodgy there won't be starter either. As it's an injection bike I'd be more inclined to look at the fuel pump relay which also feeds power to the coils or the crank sensor and its connector. To the OP: When the bike doesn't spark can you still hear the fuel pump at power on?
Whenever I took off the cover and replaced the seal I was very careful not to disturb anything and also the bike ran fine after that for like a week and a half maybe even longer.
OK. That suggests that there is a reduced voltage to the pump. The pump and the coils both get power from the fuel pump relay which could be failing. So the first thing I would try is replacing the fuel pump relay. If that makes no difference, check that the 20A fuse in the fuse box is in good condition with no corrosion, similarly for the receptacles that it fits into. Also check the condition of the relay socket. I don't think it's an earthing problem as the pump grounds through a different circuit but as belt and braces check the ECU earth and the main loom earth point, usually at the back of the gearbox behind the clutch housing and difficult to get at.
Still could be a dodgy pickup or sensor, these often only show up problems when the engine gets up to temperature and they begin to breakdown with the heat, similar to coils. When my pickup eventually failed I got no spark at all on one cylinder. You need to start working backwards logically from one end, I started from the plug which I think you've done. Next unscrew the plug cap from the HT lead, ground it to see if you get a spark directly from it to the cylinder or something. Don't crank it over for too long like that though. No spark still? Work backwards to the coil. Using a multimeter, see what readings you get and so on. Eventually you'll get a reading (or lack of) that you shouldn't, that'll probably be where the issue lies.
Agreed, and I considered that the problem might lie with the CPS. I have seen them fail when they get hot yet work fine when they are cold but this phrase from the OP's first post made me think otherwise; "...But I noticed I would give it throttle and all of a sudden it would have like barely Have any power Go onto the wheeland then all of a sudden a bunch of power. And then Bam no spark again..." When a crank sensor fails it usually stops entirely. I've never heard of sensor cutting in and out - unless the connector isn't fully seated maybe?
If I hadn't have had the experience with my pickup coil I would have tended to agree with you Derek, for the reasons you say. However, leading up to the ultimate failure mine kept cutting in and out on that cylinder but it eventually packed up and I limped home on a Ducati single! Don't pretend to understand the reasons why it would have behaved intermittently like that but it did
Well, that's a CPS failure state that I hadn't heard of before but the variety of types of failure of a CPS seems to be many and varied. It can be no spark at all, no spark when hot but ok cold, engine cutting out at higher revs, now intermittent sparks. And here's another issue I experienced: A local MTS1100 rider had his bike suddenly go down on power. It would start no problem and run without misfiring but behaved like the ignition timing was out. I ran JPdiag and ScanM5X on it. Neither showed any faults but a new crank sensor fixed it. So crank sensor issues can be very difficult to diagnose.
I’m gonna check the relay now....Like the other guy said it didn’t seem like things started to go wrong to but I got to higher temperature Like the other guy said it didn’t seem like things started to go wrong when It got to higher temperature , Originally the starter wouldn’t turn over it unless I tapped on the frame with my hand ....gonna check it now..thanks
Relay is ok , What makes this harder is the bike is running fine right now but my thinking is that soon as I take it out and drive it for more than 20 minutes it’s gonna die again what makes this harder the faster the bike is running fine right now but my thinking is that soon as I take it out and drive it for more than 20 minutes it’s gonna die again .. my haynes manual says I can’t check the TPS without a dealership with a Mattesis Sis tester, I can check the crankcase position sensor and make sure the gap is correct I can check the crankcase position sensor and make sure the gap is correct Right? Thanks for being patient and all the info I’m not a professional but I was mechanically inclined these are my first Ducati’s also. Which is cool because they’re very simple engines at least on mine Which is cool because they’re very simple engines at least on mine ....
Ok the gap on my timing sender is larder then .08. Didn’t get my feeler gauges in there but I use the credit card cut it slid it in there and it fit in the gap on the credit cards a little bit thicker than .08. Two shims on there right now do you guys think I should take one of the shims off. ? Thinking since I redid the seal on my cover it change the gap
CPS gap should be 0.7mm with the engine at the timing position. i.e. TDC on horiz cylinder, both valves closed. It is seldom the gap that is wrong. When you pull out the CPS check for swelling of the plastic body. Any swelling then it's definitely on the way out. An failing TPS will not affect the sparks, you just get areas of throttle opening where the fueling is all wrong.
