Evan Waterless Coolant

I have read mixed reviews on this, and as an engineer I have decided against using it.
Stick to the manufacturer recommended coolant, if you have minor issues I would look at the coolant system rather than what is in it.

 

Specific Heat.

Specific heat capacity of Evans waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.

 

i also looked at this in a bit of detail, and also went with Motul Mocool organic in the end, if the bike is oveheating, like a 1199 for example, then i would improved the cooling system before relying on just a change of medium, as the issue will still be there.. but possibly hidden

 

Waterless coolants are crap. They have higher boiling point but transfer less heat than water. Actually water with a corrosion inhibitor is the best coolant but doesn't offer any frost protection. Have a look at Silkolene pro CCA if this is something that might interest you. 2 percent of that with tap water is what we used in Formula 1.

 

Also an engineer who has looked into this stuff and discounted it. If it was any good then manufacturers would use it. The best thing for heat transfer is H2O.
In the end it is your bike and you should use what you want, but I don't know what you are trying to gain.

 

after dropping out the coolant from my 1199, i was amazed at how much gunge etc was in the lower radiator, and also how blocked the fins where, so this is always a good point to review.
a good flush and a deep clean of the radiator and fins can help out greatly if your at the top end of the temperature range.

 

I bought my Morini with this stuff already in the cooling system. The seller made a big thing out of it. I rode down to Madrid last year when the air temperatures peaked at 44c. The fans were going so much, I felt I was getting better value from my purchase, given that more components I'd paid for, were actually doing something! The first chance I got, I dumped the Evans and refilled with ionised water. The bike was happier, less fan action (worse value) and ran about 5-10 degrees cooler on the open road where a more like for like comparison could be made

 

You will find that the engine will run even hotter with this in the system.
The only benefit I can see is it will not boil the coolant.
As long as the cooling system can handle the pressure created by 110c you should not have a problem.
Pressure at this temp is approximately 1.5 bar or 22psi, only when the pressure acting on the coolant drops will it evaporate into steam.
As long as your hoses and clips are sound you should be ok,

 

The boiling point of water based coolant is significantly increased by the effect of pressure in the closed pressurised system.

 

It won't boil, but nor will the coolant in the bike. I challenge you to find one that does boil. Ducati make their bikes for all markets including Australia, Africa and many very hot places without a problem.

 

I used it. Spent alot of money doing the swap only to dump it and put the Water Wetter in. It took longer for the bike to get hot which was good if I needed to pop into the city on a light traffic day but once I was there heat soaking it was alot harder for the bike to cool back down. Where the water wetter heated up very much like the OEM stuff, it cooled down quickly once the fans kicked on or you got moving. I even had the temp light kick on with the Evans. At that point I just more on the sidewalk and zipped around everyone to get on the open road and get some air flow. You can't turn the bike off at that point. Heat soak will generate more heat. At that point the only option is to get the air flow and allow it to cycle back to a lower temp. I learned my lesson when it comes to Evans.

 

Not sure what bike youve got but i did try some alternatives angles to getting the temp down on my rsv4....

Removed the pair system and all the pipework running round the engine. Also installed the heavy duty alloy thermostat....removing the pair system dropped the temp by between 3 and 5 deg...as theres more flow around the engine....

Same on my z1000 (removed the pair system) and also did an airbox mod lopping the bottom off it to give a good few inches of clearance between the bottom of the airbox and the top of the motor....gave me a good few degrees back on that as well...

 

Anti freeze is also corrosion inhibitor, I would never run a modern engine without it as there are too many dissimilar metals that would cause corrosion without it.
Why don't you just buy a bigger radiator?

 

or wire up the fan so that it is always on!