Evening I've read in a few threads on here (including one of mine) that a failing reg/rec can cuase symptoms like "rough" running, loss of power, random cut-outs etc. I don't reallyunderstand why this should happen, but anyway... Is there any easy to check out the reg/rec? Thanks Andrew
A decent volt meter.... Imagine trying to sew a decent stitch on yer knickers and the mains voltage keeps wanging up and down.... before you know it.... yer thong looks like apple catchers...
due also partly due to inebriation, and partly due to dementia/lack of specific technical ability on the subject, may i suggest:- the location chosen for the 848/1098 etc regulator is a pretty poor one, even worse than 748 etc so unit is constantly being "cooked" and no surprises that it tends to fail early.
If you are unlucky enough to have an intermittent problem re: charging, then you need the patience of a saint to solve it sometimes. The basic voltage test is a good one to begin with (as in first video):- resting voltage of battery, how it changes on start-up, how it changes when revs raised to say, 3K depending on bike/regulator.
Agree with @AirCon remember the battery isn't that big on these bikes, with an old Guzzi for instance you'd be hard put to notice as the battery is a 30Ah, you can run longer on a dud Reg/Rec on one of them than a tankful of petrol on a 1098/1198/848. Battery acts like a reservoir or accumulator if you prefer, larger it is the more it will dampen fluctuations in the electrical system The usual thing that first alerts most to the dud Reg/Rec is the dash backlight starting to flash a bit and or the headlamp doing something similar. @Chris is also spot on with the location it's pants. The early 1098's like mine with the chocolate gbx and rotating mains (it's a feature Sir) had a recall to put a heat shield around them, at first they didn't even have that but had to change it PDQ Get the Shindengen when it goes, not cheap but a lot more reliable and beware of the zillion Chinese look-a-likey's going for pennies. If it walks like a duck, swims like a duck and quacks like a duck then it probably is a ...........................(insert fowl of your choice here)
The voltmeter check (measuring the diode threshold voltage) does not work for me. I measured my old regrec (which is certainly damaged) but the test would say it is functioning properly. I guess there is other electronics apart from the main power diodes (e.g. the control circuit or the shorting field-effect transistors) which can get damaged and can't be detected this way. An easy check is: * disconnect both terminals of the regrec (towards the battery and towards the alternator) * fully charge the battery with an external charger * have a ride and see if the problems are gone. Some people report that the battery can last even ~30 minutes drive without regrec charging it.
@old-jock Do you have direct experience with Chinese regrecs, or do you have other evidences? There are probably billions of vehicles running Chinese rectifiers, and the silicon technology to make silicon diodes/transistors is very well established: I would be surprised if they wouldn't get it right. And after all, all the OEM regrecs mounted on Ducatis are Japanese (isn't it?), and they blow anyhow.
No @luke1198 guess I'm as gullible to the marketing hype as any. The Shindengen is installed on few Japanese bikes, at least some models of the R1 had them. At the end of it the choice is yours, I'm not against Chinese stuff a lot of it is brilliant for the price and I've had some great bargains, also had a lot of absolute shit as well. I'm just wary of anybody selling something that it's not purported to be, a lot of the ones I've seen are masquerading as genuine Shindengen Reg/Recs when they obvioulsy aren't. One of the signs used to be the potted compound backs, but they've probably changed even that. If you know it's a fake and go ahead anyway that's one thing but buying what you think is the genuine article and its not is quite another. Dodgy Reg/Recs at best can fail and leave you stranded or they can melt some of the loom wiring and connectors or In extremis start a fire. I'd just rather not take the chance that's all
I bought a shindengen reg from a German company which allegedly raced R1's Cost £70 Twice as much as the chines versions at the time It didn't last very long it melted. Bought a used one after that still going strong
Matching the regulator/rectifier, stator, battery and load is the MOST important thing; Voltages and Current load/requirements. I'd suggest some of the issues on replacement parts could be this. Nearly always the OEM failure is corrosion on connectors and breakdown/heat on stator and/or regulator/rectifier. You can do no wrong by making sure all the connections are corrosion free and that the regulator/rectifier are kept as cool as possible. Some of the positions these bits of electrikery are put in is ridiculous.
