Setting up rebound/compression 916... after sag setup... help

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by calle3, Jun 12, 2013.

  1. Some of us are, Si, but some still seem to think they're on ducatisti, a bloody hateful site full of self-obsessed morons.
     
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  2. +1

    al
     
  3. Lol

    I think there is plenty of good tips on this thread if he OP looks thru it. In summary
    check your tyre pressures
    check the suspension is working propoerly, ie nothing sticking or bent
    Set sag up front and rear and note if you cant get rider sag in the right range after bike sag is done (ie springs too soft/firm)
    Set to standard and have a play from there
    write it all down
    check out the liks provided to understand more of how suspension works
     
  4. The section 8 settings dont work unless you set the geometry as per the set-up. And then you have to push on. It is skittish on exit of a corner, something you either like or dont. It is my baseline setting for in terms of geometry,then I set rates up to suit track/weather
     
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  5. don't be put off Bjoern - this is a good Forum generally and you only have to look through this thread to see that the correct balance is restored eventually :upyeah:
     
  6. I dabbled with the Sec 8 settings, but at the time found it too tippy/unstable for road use.
    TBH after much messing about I found the stock settings best for the front, for the road, at least for my weight and the original showa forks.
     
  7. Personally I'd set your compression and rebound to the factory settings first. Make sure you are counting adjustment clicks in the right direction, from adjuster fully in or fully out, check your manual.

    Your rear rider sag sounds about right. Ensure you're wearing your usual riding kit when you measure it though, leathers are heavy on their own. Put a tie around one of the fork sliders and go for a ride. Ride as you usually would but add some hard braking in, to really compress the forks. Ideally you want around an inch (2.5cm) of travel left below the tie. This ensures that you have some fork travel left for that pothole you will hit one day. Personally, I leave the tie in place for a time to cover as many different situations as possible. Once that's done, THEN consider adjusting compression/rebound.

    The manufacturers compression/rebound settings are usually the best compromise out there. They should be fine until the rider sag is correct for you. Here's the page I used the first time I set up a bike Suspension Setup

    Hope that helps.
     
  8. Thanks guys... I read this thread through a couple of times... and Lovelt.. your link was pretty good explaining :)

    I have started all over from scratch.... and drove about 70 km today. and it feels much better.

    BUT one question???

    about fork height ?? I read this "
    • FORK HEIGHTThis is the position of the forks in the yokes, it’s measured with a ruler or by the grooves in fork top to the top yoke. Increasing the measurement by moving the forks through the clamps has the same effect as reducing the steering head angle. Always measure from the same position on both forks. When making these changes check for clearance between front tyre and radiator at full compression.
      "


      But Iam not sure where to read the correct hight?? maybe because of my bad english... I read

      that i should could se the 4th ring??? but where??? inside or outside the fork top?? its a different?? or??
     
  9. At the lowest point, ie inside, so outside will be between rings
     
  10. Just to be sure.... because then my is way out :-(???

    You say lowest point is inside???

    The way I see it:
    lowest point is outside.. where I can see 3,5 rings
    highest point is inside... where I can see 2 rings

    Its maybe because its different way to look at it.... a picture would be nice.. where to look ;-)
     
  11. Stick a pic up to make sure its clear...tells a thousand words. If you pull the manual out I think it gives you axle to yoke measurement, which is the best to use if poss, albeit the rings on the forks easier to do
     
  12. Its a funny thing, but helping others gives a warm inside feeling...try it Andy, it may just help you turn a corner ;-)
     
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  13. i did .....go to a professional! job would of been done by now, minimal cost minimal heartache......and probably still none the wiser other than the bike works better.

    for a start that sec 8 stuff is aimed at the track.....a world away from bumpy streets and roads and most certainly wont help you turn a corner and quite frankly what is perceived as help is very much as the piccie above instead!
     
  14. forgaffel.jpg

    I think I have to learn ignore andyb....;-)

    Option 1 og 2??? bradders??

    forgaffel.jpg
     
  15. Some people are beyond redemption. Although I doubt he's as forthright in the flesh...
     
  16. Right, I measure mine from point 2. Thats how I set it up. Not an expert, but read a bit, listened a lot and choose to interpret how it suits me. But agree the Section 8 stuff is track based and needs work. Suspension is specifuc to you. No two riders are the same, otherwise Rossi and Lorenzo settings would be identical

    set sag
    factory settings to ride height and comp/reb
    Go from there
     
  17. Tbf to Andy he can be helpful when the mood takes...just doesnt take often pmsl
     
  18. i bet you i am........
     
  19. how much do you weigh..........there is virtually no preload on the front forks there.........
     
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