Hi All, I'm guessing all dual front disc motorcycles with this brake line configuration potentially suffer from this, but a quick google didn't bring up much information for some reason! Regarding air in the front brake lines, I'm assuming air can become trapped in the top part/high point of the "loop" between the 2 calipers, as shown in the red circle below (...no...not the red wheel tape!)? I don't believe the regular bleed method will get this out right? Surely the fluid flow by pressing the lever wont force any air from the top of this loop out the other caliper? or will it? If not, how do you guys clear this line? Take the caliper off and hold it higher than the loop?
Ive not had trapped air issue and I did mine about a month or so ago with replacement fluid. Think I started with rhs 1st and then t'other as per manual. Altho it may be other way round as cant remember what manual said. Was simple and took about 15mins to drain and replace.
Or just unbolt the NS caliper and it’s line clip, lift it over to the offside of the bike and elevate it ( you might need 3 hands for this, or someone to help ) and the bubbles will fly out when you bleed it. I quite often do this on my MTBs, unclip the cable and lift the caliper as high as possible, it’s a damn sight easier than trying to force bubbles downwards.
Alright matey! As cream revenge says, fit race lines. Much safer too. Especially for little rascals like you that’s partial to a track day or two. Race lines are re routed down either side and don’t have that dodgy link section across the top of the mudguard. I’ve actually followed a lad up that long straight at Almeria and his mudguard evaporated at 160mph. Thankfully it didn’t take that link section with it. Otherwise he’d crashed into that cafe, gone through it and out the other side I always bleed the furthest calliper first. Always worked ok…
Im a tit and I saw 165 before I braked and I couldve braked a mile later if I had more practice. Someone did go off and stopped just as his front wheel kissed the tyres.
It’s daunting going that fast and seeing the tarmac ahead disappear. I always fixate on the kerb on the right (that you go round) looking straight ahead is scary
I was fixated on Crafar saying brake at that service road, so I did. But it was way too early. Then I realised hes prob going 50mph faster than me at that point.
That is the marker, the service road. But if you watch all the YouTube vids, everyone brakes a tad before (on a thou). But yeah, good drive onto the straight will see silly speeds at this point. Good though innit?
A reverse bleeder works well by pumping from the calipers up to the master. Just make sure you cover everything around the reservoir with plenty of cloths, and go slooooowly. Stahlbus bleed valves are also a Godsend once your system is bled and you want to replace the fluid. You just open them up and pump at the lever until you've replaced and then replenished all the fluid, then close them off afterwards. Easy as anything.
Tbh I dont "know" there is any air in there, just seems like there might be due to air bubbles rising to the top of that high section over time, even if the fluid is flowing out of any of the bleed valves during a bleed. I replace the fluid by the service manual after each track day, push back pads, RH caliper, LH caliper, then master, using RBF600 but over the years just seems like they are getting spongier! I'll probably try that standard bleed again, and directly after bleed the LH caliper again after raising it up above that high point to see if it has any effect on lever travel/feel.
My problem was that it took me a while to figure out how to exit the flip flop and then carry momentum to the corner for the back straight. Then I had to hook my boot under the gear to change up. Which distracted me and unsettled me. Then I kept hitting the limiter and not changing up fast enough becuase or opening long enough. And, and and....Its why ive gone race shift anyways. Almaria I love it and cant wait to go back. Was hoping for Sept, but missed the chance and shit happens. Almaria is difficult for a first timer as its one line and if you fuck any of it up, you fuck the lot of it up. I was fucking it up from turn 1.
I always reverse bleed the brakes, as vacuum bleeders are often a bit hit and miss and this way you are always forcing fluid back UP the line which makes expelling any air much simpler and you don't have to mess around unbolting calipers to raise them up (particularly the rear). As I mentioned once you have bled your system and for future fluid replacement, they are a tad expensive but the Stahlbus bleed valves make the job way easier as you don't have to keep opening and closing the OEM bleed valve, every time you pump and before you then release the brake lever. You just open the valve by the prescribed amount and the internal check ball seals the air out when you release the brake lever, so you just keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid as you go. All bleed valves should be like this IMHO and you will never want to go back to the OEM ones.
That is interesting, I hear of people clamping on the brake lever overnight and returning to a solid lever, maybe this helps the air get to the lower bleed valves? Haha alright mate! Yes I thought about race lines, and still thinking about them tbh as they seem like the best technical setup, and will most likely move to them if I'm not happy with these lines, but these lines should be good enough for my current capability! I haven't had issues before, but my last TD was cut short after the lever was becoming way too spongy during a session for my liking and I stopped before I ended up at the Donington equivalent of going through the Cafe! Tbh, I think I'm secretly miffed that my mates standard 2002 'blade front brakes are more solid than mine!!
It is a tricky circuit. Took me a gazillion shots to suss 4,5 and 6- like all one tricky corner. And even now I’d balls it up… Race shift is better. Until you outbrake yourself, panic then shift the wrong way but you get the hang of it…
