Well after the first reg failed about 2 years ago on my 748 I thought i would buy a new Electrex unit now I think this is on its way out, I have a charge monitor on the bike and it is intermittently dropping below 13v while riding and then back up to 13.5v sometimes holding charge at low revs and dropping as the revs increase. All the conectors and wires have been upgraded, checked and are clean. Now have any of you fitted the Mosfet unit as this is my next investment and want to get it right. Chris have you done it ? Thinking of this kit. UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA | eBay Steve
Save some money by buying a reg/rec for a ZX10R off eBay. Then go to a Triumph dealer and buy a T2500676 wiring loom for under a tenner. Depending on bike this loom is plug and play, or just modify it to suit.
Lookie here; The upgrade fix >> no more charging/regulator/rectifier problems - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
Thanks Nelson, I must know that thread backwards by now, as Mr R has stated and confirmed by Shazam I have started to fit the reg behind the number plate, just wondering which unit to buy for a replacement. Steve
I fitted one of these used from a breaker, its the part is OE on a 2002 Yamaha R1 and bulletproof, I located mine on the underside of the seat unit (nr the shock) for better cooling and upgraded wiring from the genny back, all in £40. I did not fit the inline fuse as I wanted as few breaks as possible. 10k later, its been perfect
I have a spare one from a low milage 1098 if yr interested? £30 delivered, which is what I paid...:smile:
Have moved it this morning to the rear number plate, just need to take it for a run to check it out. My bike is the early single phase with two wires although the three wire One should work using just two wires. Thanks for the offer I will get back to you after the run. Steve
The fact thgat they overheat in the original position is probably why Ducati moved it on the ST and put it in the air intake below the headlight. Unfortunately, although this puts the reg/rect in cold air the wiring then runs right next to the radiator and that gets cooked instead ! Just out of interest, do the ZX10R and R1 units work on ST's ?
They are the Mosfet type and are three phase although the single phase works by not using one of the wires. Should be much more reliable. Steve
A friend has been a bit crafty with his reg/rec................it looks similar to the OEM Ducati one, but he has backed it up with a failed one of the same type..........so it is finned all round in effect..........had it on his bike for 11 years. AL
I had a bit of trouble with R/Rs on a fireblade.I ended up fitted a small computer fan on the back of it!Worked well.
I've posted this a few times but the start of the failure is often due to resistance (<1 ohm) on the AC supply connector plug. After my reg rec failed (to 19v resulting in a melted hole in the battery) I tried a new reg rec and battery and found the reg was getting very hot to the touch (60-70c) very quickly. So I fitted an additional heat sink made from bits at Maplins. However I also measured the resistance across the plug as even with the extra heat sink it was still getting too hot IMHO. The final mod was to cut out the plug and solder the yellow wires then fit an electric meter across the battery terminals with the meter located on the dash - this would allow constant monitoring of the battery voltage and perhaps give me some idea of what was going on. You would be surprised at how the voltage fluctuates with revs and battery temperature but since soldering the wires the reg only gets warm (maybe 25-30c) even driving in stop start traffic on hot days. For 4 years the meter has been reading consistent voltages (14.2v on tick over at 1200rpm from cold no lights and 13.9-14.5v whenever the engine is running over 2000rpm lights on or off), it is still the same battery. If you do the maths as little as 0.5ohm on each of the AC wires will generate an alarming amount of heat causing the circuit resistance to go up creating more heat. The will eventually damage the generator (burn the wires or burn out the coils) due to high load and may cause similar effects to the reg/rec before it breaking it as well. With a proper connector or soldered wires this failure mode is eliminated. Either replace the connector plugs with clamping or very heavy duty locking ones or solder it through. I don't believe the extra heat sink or location is so important if the rest of the AC circuit has 0 resistance to start the chain of failure. If you look at the picture the added heat sink has nearly double the heat conductance than the reg/rec heat sink. FWIW This is the later 748 with 998 style fairing which has a larger cooling duct than the 916 style one. If you look at the battery box and brown spots on the casings you can see what happens when an AGM battery leaks when a hole gets melted in through its case, very little fluid is released, if this was a normal lead acid battery my engine and back wheel would have been covered by it and ruined
Where do you get the upgraded wire and connectors from (solder or crimp type?) and more importantly what size wiring is it best to use as I'm wanting to do this mod right now but am having trouble locating a decent source for these. Cheers, Gary
If you are wiring from the coils of the alternator you need to get cables that are designed for use in engine bays which is resistant to much higher temperatures and chemically resistant to the oils in the engine, standard automotive pvc cables do not usually offer these properties and are only really suitable for general automotive applications. Also do not forget that for three phase alternator connections the AC cables (the yellow ones) do not need to be anything like as big as suggested by many on the internet. The calculation is not simply 1/3rd of the 12v, 520w DC output of the regulator/rectifier (14A), nor is it 40A. The reason why Shindenghen and Electrex use the cables they do for these components is because they have calculated the suitable sizes to take into account three phase power theory. The AC side of the system may only see as much as 4A at 80-90v phase to phase when the load on the DC side of the reg/rec is at 520W 14v, that is assuming that each cable is carrying its load and the connectors/wires are not offering high resistance at any point. RS sells wire that is designed for this kind of application but I have yet to see it available in any auto factor as they always supply bog standard wire for general wiring applications
