I have posted here and not on the sports/touring group as I know the forum is full of members with vast amounts of knowledge. At the end of a week long eventless tour, I started the bike and the rev counter no longer worked. If you rev the engine the needle will sometimes flick up and at other times occasionally read a much lower RPM than the true one. Most of the time it sits at zero. The whole instrument cluster is one unit. I took the bike to a local independent Ducati specialist and they told me that I need to replace the whole cluster unit. They say that it won't be the engine pick up as that would affect other things too, and the bike runs fine. They checked and the part is no longer available from Ducati. I removed the unit and reseated the rear connector. I am no electronic engineer but am happy to remove the back of the unit if required. Does anyone have any ideas? I can't imagine it's that serious so there might be a specialist that can fix it. Thanks
They are correct in that it's not the pick up, which is in fact the crank sensor, used by the ECU to time the spark and injection, etc. The tacho information is transmitted from the ECU through the CANbus connections to the dash where it indicates the revs. If the CANbus connection was faulty, the dash wouldn't show the coolant temperature either. So it's odds on that the problem lies within the dash itself. Sorry I can't help you with repairing it.
If you can get access to the tacho needle, is it spinning on the shaft? If so may be a simple fix with some superglue.
The tacho on the ST3 is built into the LCD dash housing but it's an analogue display with probably much the same innards.
If it subsequently transpires you need a new dash* these FB groups may be of interest if you’re not already aware of them: https://www.facebook.com/groups/183416959613227/?ref=share https://www.facebook.com/groups/46064396229/?ref=share https://www.facebook.com/groups/834643140048807/?ref=share * I don’t know if changing the dash on the ST3 may cause immobiliser issues but sim sure some in here will know that
Yes it will Paul. The immobiliser is in the dash but the ECU can be reflashed to delete the immobiliser function.
This post applies to reading the key data off a used dash https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/recovering-bypass-key-codes-848-1098-1198-dash.93075/ Checked my box of bits and I have a circuit board out of an ST3/MS dash The circled chip is the immo I do have the kit to read the immo chip should you have to go down the second hand dash route. The used dash can be cloned to the original dash so the key transponders and mileage stay the same.
I repaired one once where the rev counter failed. It was the motor, the internal drive failed and I could feel it was wrong as I moved the needle by hand compared to the other I had. Swapped the motor over from a donor unit that had other issues, desoldered it etc. The needle can be very tight to pull off.
Thanks everyone for the great advice. It sounds as though it’s going to get complicated… I’m away from home at the minute, but will take a look a look when I get back in a few days. I’ll keep you posted if I find anything. Cheers.
I took the unit apart. I’m not sure if I should have done it, but when I moved the needle it felt notchy/rachety. I plugged it back in and started the bike. The needle moved moved more than previously but didn’t ever indicate the correct RPM. Sometimes it dropped back to zero. I don’t seem able to upload the video unfortunately.
I had the same problem with tachometer motor on my 2004 monster. Try this guy for a replacement motor. http://www.akspeedo.com/
Thanks guys. That was going to be my next question - what should I do next? And you’ve answered it thanks, Geoff. I will give them a try. To me, a motor fault sounds better than an electronic one that I would never get to the bottom of. There is a complete unit on ebay for £850, which I wasn’t very excited about……
There’s also https://www.scorpio-electronics.co.uk/ or https://www.actronics.co.uk/ From my own experience in both cases they don’t supply parts
That’s very kind Chris. Please don’t destroy it if you think the whole thing might be needed one day. It would be a shame. I’m not certain that I’ve got the confidence to re-solder it, but could find someone I’m sure. I wonder, would it need calibrating, or do you carefully attach the pointer at the zero position?
To reset needle to zero. Power up unit with needle removed. Carefully attach needle in line with zero. Power down and press needle fully home. That’s how I did my monster.,
I have desoldered the motor. Just 4 pins hold it in place together with the 2 plastic posts. PM me where you want it sending.
