Advice Please, Bending The Steering Lock Stop 848

Haven’t done it personally but it’s alloy, so no heat. I’d try tapping it back into shape with a blunt cold chisel and just hope for the best. GL!

 

Got a picture of how bad it is?

 

Personally I wouldn't whack it, I would try to bend it back slowly with a long bar.

 

Is it the part on the headstock, steel?

 

Right. Clearer now. Not sure how I’d tackle this without seeing it but thinking it might be better / easier to do with the bottom yoke out. Maybe @MaxRundown can chip in as he has one and has spent a good few hours on his…

 

To do it properly you'll need quite a bit of heat which will burn off the paint.
You'll also so need to remove the yokes etc.

Steve R

 

Once everything is stripped off, judicious use of heat and careful hammer work should sort it out. Keep the heat away from the bearing, etc...

 

I did say no heat before the photos showing it was steel and not alloy!

 

Can’t you just leave it and adjust the throw using the nut and pin on the piece that touches it?

 

Above is a good option until you decide which route to take.

Each to their own, but if there are no signs of fracture in the metal or the adjacent weld, then would be happy to straighten that cold. You can check to see how resilient it still is in it's slightly bent shape, it's not like it's about to fall off, is it?

 

I’d just adjust the lock stop screw on the bottom yoke.
Did that on my M1100.

 

I used heat, a club hammer and a smaller hammer. I heated it up, used club as support and tapped mine back gently. Mine was base model, so it was black and easy to touch up. I didn't get it back to oem, but I got it back just enough for the adjuster to ensure I got steering lock on ok without bars hitting fairing (mot fail).