I have a 2013 848 EVO, it was running fine until the other day I started it and is didn't start I charged battery and started but died tried again but had to give it a little throttle to get going thend when reving it was shaking and a little delayed then eventually died. What is causing this? How to fix? Please help..
If the problem is a result of this then most likely that it will be the front cylinder, have you ever removed the spark plug? - if so, then it's worth carefully removing stick coil and checking for moisture/drying out with kitchen towel etc.
Oh ok thanks I'm gonna try that right now. Your saying moisture I don't have it in a heated garage right now and it's winter could this be a reason too. Because that would cause moisture too would it not?
if on your last journey you were picking up a lot of water and slush then it's true that if you parked it up wet in a cold place then it will stay wet and possibly soak in making things worse. If you could only get it somewhere dry and warmer, even temporarily then there's a longshot that it might help.
if you feel comfortable in removing stick coil and even spark plug, then this is the best way forward but be careful as stick coil can be a little fragile and even hard to remove if it hasn't been unplugged for a long time. if moisture or even corrosion is a factor here, then it will nearly always be immediately apparent when you actually remove above. Can you get hold of some water dispersant spray like WD-40? this is a bit last resort, but i've certainly used it to good effect on cars where a coil or spark plug lead is breaking down in the cold and damp.
Sorry for late reply. I took front coil and plug and plug was dirty cleaned it out it back and started didn't really rev it up because it was late and it's loud but it idled for about a min then rpm kept dropping them died
I forgot though and I'm not sure if it would cause anything but dda connection under the passenger seat wasn't hooked up one connector was by exhaust and other was facing the tail light
I also forgot sorry it's late been trying to figure it out on stop. But it really smells like gas and when I popped up the gas cap it's a little bit of gas around the inside around the hole . Like in the gas cap
...but coil and connector and lead and top of plug were all dry when you first removed? if this is the case, then it sounds as though this wasn't the problem.
hard to say, if it's been idling and not running on both cylinders then you will start to get a smell of gas from inlet filter body/crank case breather due unburnt fuel. Excess fuel spill "under" the fuel cap, isn't necessarily anything to worry about unless fuel cap itself isn't sealing properly when you shut it, do you remember if you slightly overfilled or spilt any on last fillup? there is a drain tube that runs right through tank that normally takes this away, but it often becomes blocked due to its small bore/number of years passed without checking and cleaning. There is another issue that can happen with this drain, in that it can become perforated inside the tank, but main symptom on a full tank would be that you would be leaking fuel under the bike when you parked it up, so best not concern yourself unless this is happening.
I have nothing hooked to the dda but it wasn't connected maybe that had something to do with I'm not sure. I'm gonna wait a few hrs it's 3:33am so probably not the best time to start it up. I did take the baffels out of the exhaust so it sounds good but loud I also had to replace front lights the whole headlight thing so I wonder if something t he ere I messed up . I'll let you know what the out come is.
don't worry about the DDA connector, it normally doesn't have anything connected to it, and you shouldn't really use it to charge the battery, it's better to take a flying lead directly from the two battery terminals. it is a real pain when there are so many things that it could be, but sounds like you have the right approach to just methodically check everything that comes to mind, certainly around the headlight where you worked if it involved unplugging ignition or dashboard. do you know how old the regulator is? Just a longshot.
I would try the simple things first Buy a new set of plugs and see if that makes a difference Next there are 2 relays on the side of the battery box facing the rear. One is for the Fans the other powers the coils and injectors. They are micro relays and are a known fail point I can change mine in situ with the right tools but the first time I did it I followed the book and disconnected the battery box from the frame and pulled it forward to get to them. I suggest you do that so you can clean up the sockets they fit in
On the side right underneath the battery there is a connector and there is nothing hooked up to it.and these relays circular and silver?
Just to be clear, on those "micro-relays" - i've have had several fail over the years but they have always failed completely, i.e. the bike will not run, will not start. Have you ever had an experience where the bike will run albeit badly due to the ignition relay? in the way that John Doe describes? I would be interested to know this from anyone for future reference.
The DDA should never be used to charge the bike. It is wired up completely differently to the 4 pin diagnostic connector on later bikes.
Actually I'm looking for the proper DDA connectors now that will hook up to my laptop. Which one/ones should I buy for my bike which is a 2013 Ducati 848 Evo? I'm not to sure there's alot of them.
