Ta da - another one back on the road. Aquired April 2011 with broken cylinder head studs. Between work, affordability, kids, wife, self belief, and a bit of lazyness, she is finally done. First I would like to thank everyone who helped me during this renovation over the years, I did appreciate all input, and could not have done it without the great people on this site, many thanks to all, you know who you are. Feeling a bit strange now it's done, but have a few little projects to do over the coming - I was going to say months, but it will probably be years, single seat namely. I hope I can return any knowledge I have picked up over the years and be of help to others, and hopefull still continue to post on the site, as I have enjoyed your company over the years. Will post a few more pics as soon as that sun shines. Cheers Gaz
Yes, that is the plan. Insured, waiting to see if the tester is working this weekend, I've picked a bad weekend with the bank holiday, but fingers crossed. What's another week. Thanks for the Feature Rob. Cheers Gaz
I got mine in 2011 too, and still changing things on it, can't leave it alone! Great to see another one saved and looking mint!
Thanks for all kind comments & likes. I would not say it's mint, it's a sympathetic restoration, which is short for I cut a few corners cosmetically. My personal preference is I am not a big fan of painting stuff. I touched the frame up, cleaned barrels and heads, vapour blasted casings and acf50 and polished areas of flaking paint on side covers. I can't take credit for the following, new valve guides and recut seats by CJS and shimmed by Cornerspeed. Cheers Gaz.
Fortunately I like both. I must admit I like the overall look of the full fairing, but I do like to see the engine. It was originally a full, but picked the short ones up at reasonable money some years ago. Cheers Gaz
1st of May, with tax done I was all set for the first run, I was supremely confident. You can already see where this is going. I had checked the electrics along the way as far as I could, stator and regulator checked out with reading from Haynes. I meant to check charging voltage several times, but kept forgetting. Anyway, I put the multimeter in the rucksack, and headed for my mates, I was going to check it there, you guessed it, I forgot again in the excitement. We headed off into Lincolnshire and ended up at Willingham woods. So if you saw someone there getting a bump start, that was me, dead battery. I can feel another Regulator thread coming on. Going to do a bit of reading and tackle the usual suspects, but would like any comments about best way to go if it's the regulator without modifying wiring harness. Don't mind chopping into regulator wiring, but not harness. I think I saw something about a triumph wiring adapter, but let's hope its something simple. On a good note Iam still smiling from the ride, mechanical it went great, and fueling seemed OK. Why anyone needs more than 80 bhp is beyond me. Cheers Gaz
I went MOSFET Shindegen route. I had a similar experience and it was the earth of the regulator I hadn't earthed and the battery went flat. The case of the original one should be earthed. Anyway, you can add a Shindengen with minimal change to your wiring loom, you just need to change a couple of connectors. I have a 2 wire alternator and it was straightforward enough to wire
Not sure if I should start a new thread (or not). Regards previously meantioned embarrassing breakdown and bump start in front of tutting audience shaking their heads. I checked the Stator first (2 wire). 1. No continutity between wires. 2. Continuity between 1 of the wires & earth. 3. No Ohms reading between wires - I mean with the meter set on 200 scale it did not change, I don't mean the reading was zero (so no path to measure resistance) Your thoughts would be appreciated, but think I know what they are going to be. Sorry, hope I have described this OK. Cheers Gaz
OK, here goes. In my exitement and rush to get the bike back together, wait for it, I put the stator in the wrong way round, there I said it. I knew there was a little cut out for the cable to come back underneath and exit the casing but I just didn't spot it in my blind exitement. So the wires were pushed up against the fly wheel which then wore through outer protection and then partially the wires. Anyway, I did get a new stator, but in the end I managed to repair it with crimped heat shrink connectors. I did this because the new second hand stator although it fitted the cables were too short (so not sure what model it was off). I check resistance at 3 ohms and thought the would be good enough. On reinstalling I needed a new gasket so rather than wait I used 3 bond. Also because the new crimped connectors made a longer connection after the stator I had to rotate the stator to the next set of holes in order to to bend the wire into the cutout. So when I put the bolts into hold the stator it did look like one was sticking up just a bit, 0.5/1mm. This and the fact I did not use a gasket resulted in the bolt head being pressed against to fly wheel. At the time none of this was know to me and when I tried to restart I just got a clicking sound. First I thought the battery was dead so recharged it, then I thought the starter relay had gone so first checked if it was getting current when I hit the starter button, and it was. Then I by-passed the relay and went straight from battery + to starter motor - same click. I then took the small inspection cover off the alternator housing and tried to rotate the crank and it would not move. So I took the cover off and noticed the mark on the flywheel which I knew was not there before beacause I had cleaned it after the wires had rubbed on it. The cap heads had been pressing on the flywheel stopping it from turning. So, don't put the stator on the wrong way and be carefull if you remove the gasket. I also fitted low head socket cap screws. I took it out on the weekend and all seems OK, charging at 14.5 @ 3000/4000 but did not get the reading I expected straight from the Stator. I opened up the connectors a couple of mm and checked the AC from the stator and it was only about 25 VAC at 3000 ish. Thought it should be more. I have a MOSFET FH020AA I picked up second hand off ebay for £40 to fit, just waiting for the connectors to come. I thought I would use the new (second hand) stator for this as I will have to make a connection and the wires were too short anyway. I am repeatedly draining and straining oil after start ups / runs, there is some rubber/plastic debris and a few copper wire strands in it. I am not that conserned as it is plastic and copper which I don't think will cause any problems and hope/presume the oil is filtered before it goes through any small gallerys. I don't have the appetite to drop the engine and split the casings. Cheers Gaz
