Need to do this task on the bike. Is it safe to assume its straight forward, there's no special tricks that need to be performed ? (taking the caliper off and turning it upside down etc...) Cheers
Unless you’re sure, I really wouldn’t do it yourself mate. Having lost my brakes on more than one occasion, I can assure you, it’s horrendous haha
It’s easy if you know what you need to do but not as easy as taking the caliper off and turning it upside down (which is basically completely wrong).
Theres a video on youtube by "canyonchasers" re multistrada brake fix. It will apply to your bike too. Use castrol SRF ($$). Follow that guide. Be very careful to no tlet any air into the system. I think your later model has the ability to have the ABS pump cycled but you have to use the Duc computer (Texa) to do it. As long as you dont' let air into it it shoudl be fine.
I have no idea about ABS systems but if one thinks that taking the caliper off and turning it upside down will be the correct route to follow I would think that the OP needs more experience with brake systems.
It's a well know issue on most bikes, mainly rear calipers, my old Aprilia Brembo was an absolute bleeder .
Well, if you knew the issues on this model you'd understand why. My bike has the stock exhaust My brakes work. Many other's, don't. There are lists of threads about this issue on other forums. Along with exotic attempts at solutions. This bike in not a normal bike when it comes to it's shite (rear) brakes.
As stated above the rear brake on these bikes is the issue. The brake pipe runs too near the exhaust and it heats the fluid, not good. I tried Castrol SRF and it worked of course for a while but it’s bloody expensive. Not only that but you won’t get through the whole bottle before it goes off, absorbing moisture in the container once it’s been opened. Effectively doubling the ludicrous starting cost. I now take the view that it’s better to bleed the rear far far more often with standard brake fluid or go for Motul RBF600. I fitted a speed bleeder to make it easier and also fitted Serie Oro disks all round and uprated (red) pads. The result is a definite improvement. When I stamp on the rear brake the machine actually slows! Which is still a pleasant surprise every time I do. I keep toying with the idea of buying a Hel rear brake hose and completely re-routing it away from the heat as much as possible or fitting a heat resistant hose around the existing line in the area effected by the exhaust. I just haven’t got round to it yet. Also I’ve been meaning to buy a one way bleed valve which goes in the bleeder tube, also making life easier. (Double insurance when bleeding). If you’re going to do it yourself it’s at your own risk. Put plenty of fluid through it to make sure any bubbles are pumped out. It’s not difficult. One other trick, Zip tie your brake levers when you leave the bike standing for a period. Apparently any air can then travel up the lines to the reservoir. Certainly seems to firm up the pedal but after an hours ride I can’t tell if I’ve got used to it or it’s gone spongy again. When it’s like that I take it as a sign that it needs bleeding well bleeding again.
Re turning the rear caliper upside down ...the OP has a point. On my Multi .....after a few thousand miles the rear brake lever travel gets too long. I use the rear brake quite a bit just to scrub speed off going into bends . Roundabouts etc ....(no fork dive, ....also when filtering) so I like the brake .."just so" I have to remove the rear caliper (hose still connected). Remove the plastic pipe shoud and get the caliper higher then the ABS unit using a workmate with a bit of wood clamped in it with the caliper mounted on. The caliper mounted such that the bleed nipple is uppermost. Then bleed the brake ....flushing through the new brake fluid and I do usually get air out. I hear the fluid gets overheated due to its location and using Motil RBF whatever has helped the situation. I have tried not removing the caliper to bleed ...but does not get the air out ..hence still long pedal travel. Ger
I've heard of a mod where you fit a Banjo and bleed nipple to the rear brake out port on the ABS .....however you also need to make a hole in the seat base because the bleed nipple fowls the seat base ....If I could be arsed ...I'd have a short brake pipe instead with a nipple attached mounted on rear seat frame somewhere ...(up high)
I may have got the wrong end of the stick with OP’s initial suggestion as I incorrectly assumed that he was referring to front brakes. Apologies for that.
Yes ....the Rear brakes are a pita on the multi....from my personal experience (Multi 1200 ABS 2014 MY in my case)
I'm pretty decent with the spanners, and look after many vehicles. Changed many a brake fluid in my time That "upside down caliper" trick was from my Triumph scrambler which you have to do on the rear caliper to bleed out the air. I was just using it as a reference to any particular odd things that may be needed on the multi. Also I've bought regular Pagid DOT 4 fluid, I haven't seen any mention of "you can only use this make" ?
I use RBF 660 motul on the rear because it's got a higher wet boiling point than average fluids ...I think it's helped lengthen the time between having to bleed rear brake. Rest of bike ....I just use whatever DOT 4 I can shoplift ....but the Motul would be fine. There are a few threads on here about this very subject.
Hi, take a look at my reply a couple of messages above - I got the wrong end of the stick and made an ass of myself!
Its cool, Id advise any novice not to play with brakes either until they've got some experience under their belt
