Cheers! Much appreciate the comments as it has been a bit tiresome lately. I have been stripping powdercoat off the footpeg hangers and it has taken about 4 hours and 1.5 litres of paint stripper. I wasn't able to find a reputable outfit to dip strip them for me so had to get stuck in. Anyway, here is roughly where I am at. Had a nice diversion the other day and went to look at another twin with carbon bits on it
Based on your last picture what bars are you running? I've gone with Renthal fat bars but it was awkward as the stock yoke / risers wont take the adapters like 99% of other bikes do. In the end I had to get some new risers made but with the narrower Ducati bolt spacing and the slightly raised section on the yoke itself machined off.
I'm not actually sure what the bars are, they were on the bike when I bought it. I haven't seen any branding on them, they are thick tube aluminium
Getting very close now, I have been doing a few extra bits along the way like upgrading my coils. I already have a Ignitech so I bought some Plasma Pulse coils from Fast Bike Gear to replace the stock ones. I also made up some new leads with non resistor caps as per the FBG guide. New coil mount bracket, stamped to make it look a bit more legit I also added a Mosfet RR, the one on the bike (not original) burned out one of the phase pins on one of my last rides so that was always destined for the bin. The inline connectors have also been removed from the loom. I got my hands on some Termignoni's too You can see in the pic I have the ign unit under the side cover, I'm not 100% on this spot due to potential water ingress issues but there was less space under the seat than I thought so it might need to go back under the tank in future.
My ignitech is mounted on the left hand side (inside) of the frame using a custom holder and rubber covered p-clips with the connector facing backwards to avoid water ingress. I must admit for a non-fabricator such as myself it works really well. https://www.performancefab.co.uk/ignitech-mount-bracket I've got the California Cycleworks coils on my build and I too need to make a new mini-loom but I cant get the 90 degree spade terminals 100% correct which is annoying me at present.
I have flipped mine around too, easy enough with the rubber holder and still fits under the sidecover @Nottsbiker I know what you mean about the 90 degree terminals, I couldn't find any either and almost thought about cutting up the originals but decided not too. After tinkering with a few more things I ended up with this The only bits missing are the rear indicators, I'm waiting on some 3d printed mounts I drew up in Fusion 360. First start will be this coming weekend, a few people want to be there so I haven't tried it yet although I have cheated a little by checking spark and timing using the Ignitech software and have also turned it over with the plugs out to prime the oil system.
Looks great! I wasn't very clear on my last comment - my Ignitech unit is mounted alongside the left hand carb in the bracket linked above and secured horizontally using the P-clips. This method is out of the way and the rubber of the clips adds a tiny amount of vibration damping.
Today was the day, some cranking to get fuel through then a bit of choke and it fired right up! A few minutes balancing the carbs and setting the idle and it was all good, a few oil fittings needed nipping up once warm but no other dramas. Then before the light disappeared I took it for a short ride to the coast Pretty happy with it, it feels a lot smoother than it ever was. It seems reshimming the gearbox has eliminated the clunk when shifting it used to have. The only negative so far is the lack of finding neutral when running, my old clutch pack was flogged but neutral was easy. What is the best way to help this? Swap out a new friction for an old one or accept it and move on with life
Yes. The clutch is dragging slightly, hence the difficulty to select neutral, you may just need to reduce the stack height by 0.5-1.0mm
Stack height is 38.65mm, plates are new organic ones. I sourced some 1.5mm steel plates which actually mic to be 1.35 so have swapped two of them into the pack which brings it down to 37.85. I'll put a few k's on it and see how it goes, I have a couple more plates I can swap out if needed. Edit: I'm also now running an Oberon slave cylinder with a 29mm piston vs stock 27mm (I think??) so the throw will be a little less than before too
I had a couple small jobs to finish off, one was a case guard bent out of sheet metal with some tabs welded on then painted. The other were some mounting platforms for the rear indicators. A previous owner had chopped the tail off and bolted the indicators straight to the frame tube, this was all done in a fairly rough fashion and didn't look very nice. I have a friend with a 3D printer so I had a go at designing a better solution. After a few iterations I had this. After printing and a bit of a tidy up then fitting They account for the taper and downward angle of the tube and look a whole lot better
It's been nearly two weeks now and I have been out on a few rides making sure everything is good, I was keen to get the road worthiness check as soon as possible which meant taking my nice shiny thing out in the rain I am really enjoying riding it, again it feels so much nicer than before which is good considering the time and money spent haha A couple notes: The clutch is good now, neutral is not a problem with the thinner steels. Suspension is also improved, the stiffer fork springs are much better, once they settle I'll check the sag again and adjust if needed. The rear shock seems ok, I haven't touched it at all but static sag is 6mm, rider sag is 35mm and is 2 turns out on the rebound screw. It'll probably be the next thing to get rebuilt/replaced.
