I have bought a set of standard cans and i plan to take them apart and remove the catalyst, i will put them back together and try them on the bike, the theory being the cat is the main restriction but after this there are a set of baffles which will reduce noise and give some back pressure, this should remove the need for adjusting the fueling. For those that have never seen inside a standard can i will do some photo's and post them up, the cat is a massive restrictor and there is some impressive stainless steel and heat matting in there !
If you go the whole hogg....decat and de baffle, it's a straight forward proceedure to flash the DP map to your ecu, thus doing away with the lambda sensor meddling with the fueling. The cables to do it are less than 15 quid and a licence for the software is about 80 quid, or 40 for additional ecu's if you know someone with a licence :wink: to do it for you....might be an option considering how much your gonna save on the cans.
Sounds like a plan ! I have an ecu from a 09 848, now physically it looks identical so my theory was that it's just a matter of flashing in the 1198 race map/settings ?
Will do, off to take piccys now, not as simple as I 1st thought so my mistakes may help others, stay tuned
Yup, thats the one.....it should be an IAW 5AM. And the rest is as the other post by me..... PM me if you want any info or help. Anth
piccys A cat, this is welded good and proper to the link pipe end, so remove rivets (more on this later ) and this end just pulls out, now back to rivett removal, the band is not welded like the other end (to form a mounting bracket) so remove the two either side of the gap 1st. If you do these last, when the last rivett goes the band may jump off and wrap itself round the drill bit like a mashed up corkscrew, i know this :frown:
pics This is what it looks like when you think, ah! just cut most of it off and dremmel the rest out, err no it look fragile but its well solid and i gave up, they are off to the welders to be surgically removed
pics Now if you remove the rivets from the outlet end bear in mind (lesson learnt) that this end is enclosed so the rivets that you knock out fall into the cap and you cannot get them out without cutting the end off . so in my haste to get this job done quickly as i have loads of other stuff to do i started on the wrong end :frown: then thought feck it lets see whats in there, so i end up with a can that sounds like a tin full of pebbles :biggrin: i'll sort that later. Now i have slid the can internals partway out as there is a liner of fire wadding between the exterior and the stainless baffle housing, i think if i pull it all the way it will be a bastard to get back in with the wadding intact and when i say baffle i dont mean the baffle type you remove to annoy the neighbours, the housing as you can see from the end shot is a big baffle housing, this i intend to leave as is for now as we are talking some serious welding and messing about. This is hope will keep it at a reasonable sound level and provide some back pressure, we will see. also a piccy of the label on the ecu i hope to get flashed.
TBH I'm probably going to leave alone, or wait util I've heard a set done. I'm a bit worried about the MOT man. The can link pipes have been modified to fit the older bike, so it wouldn't be a simple as getting a spare set for MOT time...:frown:
Well the CAT's have been despatched to the welders and i will give the rest a clean up and put the business end back together this weekend, just gotta wait for the front pipes to come back and good to go.
Well the pipes are back from the welders, apparently he had a bastard of a job getting them out, i did tell him that cutting the pipe off to get access was a last resort because they would have to be welded back on milimeter perfect or there would be a chance they would not fit, he did a great job. Further to an earlier post ref sliding out the inner s/s sleeve from the outlet end, dont do it ! it was a sod to slide back in without rippling up the outer insulation wadding as the outer alloy sleeve flexes. They are all back together and hope to have them on for a test run in the next few days.
No cat's, no wadding and drilled outlet end plate (3 10mm holes each) (I have bolt on rings made to cover these for MOT) sounds a treat. And to finish off they are mirror polished too and shortened by 5"
Your theory is flawed. The cat is of little restriction. The baffle assembly is the restriction to the free flow of gases out of the system. I have done many pairs of these cans and can vouch for that. The baffle removal is easy, involving a little drilling of pop rivets and the cutting of the end cap from the baffle assembly, easy with an angle grinder. Removal of the baffles is easy without disturbing the wadding around it, so replacement is a doddle. Re-assembly involves a measured length of perforated baffle pipe being put inside with some wadding/wire wool wrap round it and re-rivetting the end cans. The rattle of old rivets you seem so upset about is easily fixed - drill a 10mm hole on the inner side of the end cap and they fall out....... No welding, no workshop to send to, just easily done in your own shed. ECU doesn't need swapping/remapping, the only difference to performance is a small increase in fuel consumed, and a greatly enhanced sound. Plus you are helping the environment by leaving the Cat in.................
