748 748r Showa Shock Info ?

Getting it out is easy if your linkages are not seized. To take the weight off the swing-arm there are a few options:

• Abba stand.
• Motorcycle lift under the engine.
• An axle-stand under each peg (if you've got solid pegs, run a metal bar through the frame if not).
• Get a ladder (or two) on opposite sides of the bike and use a ratchet strap on the subframe to lift up the bike.

 

I use axle stands under the footpegs or a long threaded bar through the engine if the pegs are in the way (or folding).

These bikes are designed for easy access to stuff like this so it works well;



Compared to a Monster where you need better access due to the exhaust etc. being in the way so I use a bar through the engine as the pegs are in the way;



As above stuff is likely to be seized, especially if never removed before and, you can be almost certain, the ride height rod will be seized unless someone has freed it off and applied anti-seize plus, being ally nuts they have a tendency to break if you try to un-seize them but you maybe lucky, or don't try to adjust it..

As for rebuilding, I always use Ktech for suspension as they do the job properly and they're nearby but I guess any reputable suspension specialist would do it.

 

MCT is your place to go for the Shock, Darren is superb and will almost certainly be able to refresh it and maybe even modernise the valving for improved performance and feel while retaining the original look. He’s a magician!

 

I often use a normal rear paddock stand to support my bike when removing its shock.
Lift bike with stand as normal,
slacken the shock bolts,
Place a Jack under exhaust and lift until weight is taken off shock bolts,
Remove bolts and remove shock.

 

Start applying penetrating oil (not WD40) now and apply 2x daily for the next several days.

Somewhere within this forum is a blueprint for a tool to drift out the swingarm pivot bolt. I got one made up ages ago and it’s useful for a lot of other things that get seized on poorly maintained bikes too eg axles.

edit. I found it in my cloud files but don’t know who to attribute it to - to the author, my apologies.

 

Just make sure to give it some penetrating oil for a few days to help the process and use decent hex sockets to undo them. You may be lucky and they’ll undo ok with a decent length socket bar. Depends on how the bike has lived it’s life.

 

Firstly, I don't know why there are suggestions to take out the swing arm pivot bolt? Also hex sockets won't work on the Allen head bolts that hold the damper.
I've restored a few of them in the last couple of years and I made some long and boring videos. I'll put a link to the first one at the end. Perhaps it helps you. The biggest issues you may find are corrosion on the shaft, usually at the top, under the bump rubber. That may render the shaft useless and replacements aren't available. I guess it could be ground and re-chromed. The bladder that holds the gas has most likely perished too. The steel damper tube can be re-plated as it's guaranteed to be corroded, and the aluminium parts can be anodised again if needed. On that, matching the colour is difficult to impossible. Body, top, spring platform etc are all hard anodized and the colour changed on everything I had re-done. Some parts became lighter, some darker. K-tech sell a seal kit but it only contains the shaft seal, DU bush and o-ring for the seal head. They also use a different seal but they do work. The rest of the O-rings need to be sourced elsewhere. I haven't been able to find new piston bands but luckily I could re-use them every time. I believe K-tech also sell the bladder for the gas. I convert them to a piston so I never bought a bladder. The top with the rebound adjuster can be difficult to take apart. Some have a bung that hasn't got a slot to unscrew it and some have the slot. They're all peened over by being centre punched at the edge. The thread is also odd if you need a new bung, it's a M11x1. The adjuster itself snaps easily as I believe people are trying to wind it out. It can only come out by removing the bung and winding it in and only when it's off the shaft.
Anyway, here's the link to the strip down video.

 

Öhlins spares are easier to come by but very expensive. I recommend Ben at BG bearings. He's been a Öhlins franchise dealer for many years.

 

Maybe not under a carbon exhaust.

Personally, I'd prefer to be supporting the subframe rather than the exhaust, even if that involves removing the exhausts.

 

I meant under the exhaust pipe headers close to the rear not the silencers??
Anyway not everyone has access to a means to support the bike from above.
ive been using my method for close to 26 years and never any issues.