I'd contact a local, recommended Ducati specialist and get a quote, I'd rather use a good specialist than a main dealer to be honest, I think you'll get a better service, better quality of work at a better price. Or, learn to do it yourself if you're confident with the spanners.
Agreed with the above, it's not a tough job, just tricky with the top belt, but once you've done it, you'll see it's an easy job.
Yep, it's not rocket science, valve adjustment is a little more complicated but, not the voodoo it's made out to be.
Belt prices probably vary between countries but I can tell you that I was charged two hours of labour if that helps.
Standard time on the 1260 is under a hour. The 1200 needed more parts removing, including the tank, for access and was about 2 hours iirc. If the standard times are followed, you’d be looking at around £200 inc the belts depending on the labour rates
That's taking the p*ss For £100 more I got the Desmo service, belts, all fluids (oil, brake and clutch), oil and air filters, new plugs and a good check-over from my local Ducati trained indi.
Tell them to go do one, that is a criminal quote! Which dealer? I'm sure others will want to avoid these clowns.
Just to breath some life into this thread again... I've stripped the fairings, belt covers, and tank off my 2018 1260 PP in preparation for having my first go at changing belts and checking valve clearances as the mileage is now 16k. Although, I've not committed to actually removing the cams if they're out of spec, any shims do need replacing. If my bottle goes at that stage, I'll probably end up with my tail between my legs at Cornerspeed or Luigi Moto! I'm no expert by a long stretch and to date have only gone as far as oil & filter changes, front and rear wheel changes, and new brakes pads etc. The basics, but thoroughly enjoy fettling this bike as it's 100% a keeper now after getting me across the US without missing a beat (excluding an EML for a day). My loose plan as below: 1, As a cautious noob, I was thinking I'll take the spark plugs out, buy the crank turning tool below and start turning the engine over by hand to get an understanding of the relationship between the 5no punch marks... 4no on the cam pulleys and 1no on the layshaft pulley. Current belts stay on at this stage. 2, Finding perfect TDC compression horizontal cylinder is a concern, as it stands my only method/understanding to achieve this would be to feel for compression stroke using my hand, then measure the highest point of the piston using a rod of some type. I'd also buy the TDC Control Gauge to confirm 100% TDC as I believe this tool only fits on the layshaft pulley, and with aligned punch mark to crank case line when at perfect TDC horizontal compression. That's about as far as I've got so far, and the web is full of conflicting info and stories of how easily this can go wrong due to the nature of the DVT tech. I'll get the cam covers off in the next day or two for sure and start taking some clearance measurements while formulating a plan of attack for the belts. If it's of any interest, I'll update this thread with photos/video of progress.
I don't know where you live but my belt change was less than £300 on my XDiavel,at Ducati Bournemouth?
Down in the depths of West Cornwall so the techs/dealers I'd be happy to use are all a good 4+ hours away and then a van needs hiring for two days, day off work, fuel costs etc. All adds up. It's also about acquiring the skills and knowledge to do the work myself.
Totally understand,all I can say is good luck, and it's worth watching the 44 teeth video on changing belts,I think it's at motoluigi......
Just a note on using that tool. There are 2 types. The 1200 DVT is different to the 1260. Make sure you get the correct one. The punch mark on the bottom belt pulley doesn’t line up with the mark on the clutch cover, or at least exactly. On the 1200 it’ll sit to the left and 1260 to the right. That tool simply confirms, checks, you have the correct position. Tdc is locked by a locking tool in the crank end behind the cover on the alternator cover. The cam pulleys have marks that line up with the gasket face. Again, to align them accurately, there’s a cam timing tool that screws to the cams. For finding tdc, remove the centre plug, drop a long thin driver down there so the tip rests on the piston and turn the motor over slowly. Just watch the position of the driver rise and fall as the piston comes up. Once you have tdc, check using that tool. Due to the DVT motor running unequal sizes of cam pulleys, you’ll have to try it several times. It’s something like 1 in every 48 turns of the crank will align correctly…… Long story short, the DVT can be a pain to time up..especially when doing a desmo service where the cams need moving or being taken out for shimming and/or the crank needs rotating to prevent valves dropping when shims are removed. If you can, leave the belts in place and check the valves. If they don’t need any work, refit the head covers, time up the cams and change the belts so you won’t have to rotate the motor.
