Rounded Oil Sump Bolt

You could try tapping a slightly oversize torks bit into the hex hole and seeing if that works.
Next I would go for carefully hacksawing/needlefiling a slot across the head, and using a large flat bladed screwdriver.

 

Apply plenty of heat to the crankcase around it until hot to the touch then use an easy-out to get some decent purchase in the head of the bolt so it can really bite into the metal and gently back it out. There are other options that use different techniques such as a tool set that allows you to insert a sacrificial interference bit into the head of the bolt, which you then back out with a socket.

 

Another option would be to hammer in a hex bit you can afford to lose, then weld it to the bolt and use a conventional socket to remove the lot. Either way that sump bolt is toast whatever method you use to remove it. One question. Is the sump bolt gold passivated zinc plated steel or did you paint it that colour, as that might have played a factor in why it is seized.

 

I have had this happen before and the use of heat, along with an oversized Torx bit, tapped fully (but gently) home, reversed it out easily.

 

I would perhaps try heat and a torx bit first before you spend any money. If the bit starts to spin in the bolt, stop. At that point you are only making it worse if you continue. You want to preserve as much material as you can for the following tool to work effectively. Something like this should be more than up to the job. No drilling required. Buy a decent quality kit though not necessarily this one! Try Laser Tools, Sealey or Draper for starters.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387409549583?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=275536,276104&meid=918c5505f5be4e1f9a7830a80d117037&pid=101224&rk=1&rkt=5&sd=196164275894&itm=387409549583&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2332490&algv=DefaultOrganicWebV9BertRefreshRankerWithCassiniEmbRecall&brand=Unbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101224.m-1

 

Because the head of these is quite large you can use a flat ended punch and hammer on the outside edge to knock it round anti-clockwise the first bit to loosen it.

Go at it with a shallow angle so the punch digs in and creates it's own flat to act against.
And use short sharp blows of the hammer rather than going at it like a man possessed.

It's never failed me.

 

In the meantime you can drain the oil by pulling out the pre-pump filter or simply removing the oil filter.

Good luck.

 

you can use a small sharp chisel on outer diameter, as said. Also as said, if you do go for some sort of interference fit hex et cetera, remember that you are hammering onto aluminium so you can't use too much force.

 

Has anyone used an alternative sump drain plug to the OEM one?

One that doesn’t round out.

Any links to a suitable one for 2015 Multi 1200 ?

The next time my oil is changed I would like to replace the OEM one.

 

Take it easy with violence and heat the cases are fairly thin.
I have drilled right through before and used an easyout, with slight persuasion at the outer edge of the sump plug with a slightly blunt chisel. A sharp one will just cut the plug without digging in

 

re: last note ("sharp") - worked/works fine for me, many times, on brass and on steel.

 

IME, based upon all the ones I come across, the sump plug is often over tightened, its torque value is just 20Nm. Use a new compressible washer each time and smear a little 3Bond or Dirko on the thread and where the washer sits and then tighten to just 20Nm and it won't ever leak. OEM ones are just fine (if not overtightened).

If needed, JMP do cost effective replacements.

 

I changed mine to a generic aftermarket one on my 899 because the original had been badly damaged by I presume a previous owner and eventually I had to chisel it off.

 

Thanks, WCP