Now that the front wheel is back on there are a few jobs that I otherwise could not do without being able to turn the steering from lock to lock so I wil hopefully cover those tomorrow. Pics to follow soon.
Not exactly, in as much as they don't provide any benefit in terms of heat retention. Quite the opposite in fact.
So progress has been sloooow on the bike, as I am working my a@@ off at the moment. On an early shift tomorrow and standby on Xmas day until 6pm, so the beers my son kindly bought me (as manager of a brewery in Bristol) will have to wait until then. Off on Boxing day then back to the grindstone until New Years day. The offshore industry never rests and Xmas is no exception. Still I can't complain as I'm back in the saddle after many months of pondering my future after open heart surgery. I am a lucky boy to have overcome my ailments and continue the job I have loved for the last 28 years. Anyhow enough ranting from me. Wishing you all a very Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year, wherever and with whomever you share it.
So the front wheel is finally back on the bike. Ticking off a much decreasing list of things to do! Podium Racing titanium axle nut. Will eventually be torqued to 63Nm, after I have bled the brakes and settled the "free" and "captive" fork legs, which is essential when you replace the front wheel.
When I was in The North Sea, we’d always crew change around the 28th- busy day! And the weather was invariably sketchy… got stuck on a few times. Happy days Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours too…
What were you looking at fitting? Must have been a significant cost based on what has gone into this already. It’s looking ‘kin amazing so far.
Until I know for sure I can't fit them or find a viable solution, I will keep them under wraps. I have a couple of other bespoke parts I am now concentrating on in the meantime, so I will know more in the New Year.
So with a fairly busy schedule at work this weekend, I'm not sure how much progress I will make but I will try to bring you some updates over the weekend, plus news of a new accessory that arrived on Xmas Eve. Been wanting one for ages.
So after a pretty hectic work schedule over the last two weeks, I managed to make a little more progress. Starting off with bleeding the entire hydraulic system using my compressor and Sealey vacuum bleeder. This setup, in combination with the Stahlbus bleeders, makes the whole job a breeze and finished the whole process in under 90 mins. Then it was a case of torqueing up the front calipers with the brakes applied and then the axle nut (having nipped up the free leg pinch bolts). Then with the free leg pinch bolts freed off, I torqued up the pinch bolts on the captive leg. Then the bike came off the front paddock and I compressed and released the forks a few times to settle the free leg on the axle, before torqueing up the pinch bolts on the free leg. It sounds like a long winded process, but this ensure everything is square and runs true. ProBolt M8 x 25mm stainless steel front axle pinch bolts, torqued to 19Nm. (For reference: front caliper bolts, 45Nm and front axle nut 63Nm). New 520 DID chain finally arrived. Decided after many years of entrusting the fitting of the chain to someone else, I would do it myself, so I invested in a genuine DID tool to get the job done. Actuallly a lot simpler a job than I imagined and the tool is pretty easy to use with two preset positions. One for pressing the plate on and one for riveting/flaring the pins. The specs call for the flared pins to be between 5.5-5.7mm once completed. I managed 5.6mm and 5.7mm, so happy with that. Here is how they came out Chain in situ Next job was to fit the mass damper/resonator to the swingarm. Shims shown are added to the spacers, to ensure they are clear of the swingarm casting, when the support plate for the resonator is torqued down. For now I have just nipped up the bolts, as I need to set the chain tension which will have to wait until I fit the sidestand, as it calls for taking four measurements whilst on the paddock stand, then again with the rear wheel on the ground. Mass damper/resonator fitted and temporarily, also the rear wheel. Again awaiting a few more parts before this can go on for good. Had a chance to bond the Lieb Speed carbon cover for the seat pad in place (using Parabond 600). Also fitted the front subframe covers. I had to apply a foil section underneath them to which the adhesive is applied, so if necessary, should they be removed, the front subframe will remain undamaged. Next job was to adjust the rear brake now that it's been bled. This meant setting the pedal height as per the manual using the brake light switch bolt. The manual calls for 6.6mm Then I needed to set the free play on the actuating rod/plunger. The length needs to be set as per the manual to 118.2mm. With that done and some minor fettling, the job is done. Last part was fitting this billet aluminium cover to improve the look of the somewhat ugly OEM rear brake master cylinder. Held in place by 2 ProBolt M6 x 20mm bolts, torqued to 8Nm. That's all for the moment folks. Here is where I am now. On the home stretch. As usual held up with parts in transit.
I will be interesting to see if you can notice anything with the mass damper. It's certainly noticeable on track
I had this fitted on the last V4 I had, but only covered 250 miles before trading the bike in, and never rode it without the damper, so no comparison possible. Can't say with any certainty yet, regards the current bike, as it has only clocked 450 miles, so it remains to be seen if I notice any difference between riding without it and with it now fitted. I am guessing it will only be a perceived improvement on the road, but if it's actually doing what it says on the tin, then I am fine with that. As you alluded to, it most probably is way more noticeable when the bike is working hard (on track).
