Yep, those really are the standard OEM airboxes from my Darmah and they should be a straight fit, at least onto your frame. Because of their positions under the tank & behind the side panel you don't actually see them. I removed them because I wanted space for a rewire and the new ignition system. I fitted K&N cone filters which do provide some protection but I noticed your carbs only came with trumpets & wire mesh. The latter isn't really going to stop gritty air getting into the bores. Btw the engine breather pipe usually connects to the front airbox but I can't see where yours was routed to. Again, I used a K&N filter.
In that general area, yeah, but pointing down on the ground. I’ll try and take a pic. It didn’t shock me, to be honest.
I've seen a few where the pipe was rerouted to end over the chain run or run along the rear mudguard to come out near the numberplate thus avoiding contaminating the rear tyre.
I really have this warm fuzzy feeling that this bike has been well treated by its previous owner. It’s the 3rd « older » bike I get from Japan and I must admit that every time, the previous owners were very good at keeping them loved and cared for.
And rear break done. No sweat, I was expecting a much more difficult experience… One piston came out right away. The other needed more persuasion. Comparing stock pistons and new aluminum/Teflon ones is pretty interesting. Everything is clean now, with new seals and all. Master cylinder works perfectly. I got m/c refurb kits but will not use them just now. Waiting for new pads and brake likes. And this is not going back on this bike. Next are the front calipers and lines. I do not expect anything difficult, as these were not seized, unlike the rear one. Stay tuned!
I measured the valve clearances this morning. Not too bad, but some room for improvement (in red): Vertical Cyl. - Intake Opening = 0.09 (0.08-0.10)/ Closing= 0.08 (0.00) - Exhaust Opening = 0.09 (0.12-0.15) / Closing = 0.09 (0.00) Horizontal Cyl. - Intake Opening= 0.04 (0.08-0.10) / Closing = 0.03 (0.00) - Exhaust Opening = 0,08 (0.12-0.15) / Closing = 0,04 (0.00) Nb: Ducati manual tolerance values in brackets. I am surprised to read zero clearance given for all closers. Is that bevel twin specific ? I am planning to aim for 0.03.
I set mine at zero, but found it awkward. Lot easier with the heads off as you can feel the drag on the cam as you turn the bevel drive. I used to make my own shims when spares were patchy
Well I don’t live on an island in the middle of the North Sea, you see. My 916sp and 851sp both have cast iron floating discs and they do not rust one bit in my garage. Because it’s dry and naturally climate controlled. That’s the beauty of living in the « south ». And because I ride them. Lots! On dry roads mostly.
Guillaume69, this is definitely the case and it doesn't take much to make a board with four long studs that you can slide the head over when working on it. I'll try to take a photo of my crude set up. There's a great deal of faffing about when doing the valves & shims and this makes it so much easier to do in the comfort of the house on the dining room table with a cup of tea and an iced bun. And if you happen to drop one of the split pins down the oil drainage hole or a valve in the cylinder then you will definitely have wanted to do the job with the heads off... Yeah they always talk about a zero clearance but I think it's much easier (& safer) to aim for a 'loose sliding' fit of the closing shim rather than any specific clearance. By this I mean the shim should be able to be turned easily by hand with the piston at tdc and during a complete camshaft cycle. When I do it & if I have trouble turning the shim I'll see if relieving the spring pressure on the closing rocker reveals the little clearance I'm looking for. A little controversial perhaps but the cams aren't always ground accurately and what you don't ever want a closing shim to be too tight. And make sure you have a properly accurate shim measuring tool. As for the opening clearances I have always stuck to 4 & 6 thou which equates to 0.1 & 0.15. And I might be completely wrong here, it's late & I can't think, but you must do the closing shim first and then the opening as changing the former can effects the latter Btw the two half rings can & do effect the clearance e.g. if they are put in upside down or replaced, because one side can wear to a flat. I couldn't see exactly from the photos but it looks like you have the external valve guide oil seals fitted. Given the length of time it has been standing it might be good idea to replace these.
All clear. I am still debating removing the heads. I am used to do my clearances on my D4 so not too concerned about fiddling in small places. A D2 is so much easier… I am fully equipped to measure shims accurately (micrometer, tool, all from LT Snyder), and to avoid losing collets in the oil drainage holes of the D2 vertical cylinder, I tuck a hose from one hole to the other. Fail proof, as you can’t forget it in there. Thanks for confirming the method to get « near zero » on the closers. I found this post from Craig on Ducati.ms and understood exactly the same: « I was taught to do my valves by Giuliano, one of the works Ducati mechanics helping Steve Wynn/Mike Hailwood in the Isle of Man after clattering into the Castle Mona hotel carpark following a brisk lap. He didn't measure the gap, just whipped out the closing shim, chucked away the collets, measured the old shim, got out the next size up and some new collets, put it together and rotated the shim. If it was tight anywhere on the cam he whipped it out and rubbed it (the shim...) on a coarse carborundum stone until he could easily rotate the shim with fingers at any point on the cam. Took him about 10 mins! Naturally this only works if you have a drawer full of shims and havn't left it too long. Lumpy's approach seems the way to go if you have to order shims, but on an optimistic note, Giuliano's parting shot was "ees good when make de noise" I think meaning that loose is better than tight! ». As far as the openers are concerned, my workshop manual says 0.08-0.10 at intake and 0.12-0.15 at exhaust. Finally, I do intend to change the valve guides seals, and got the green/black ones, but looking closely in the heads, I did not recognized the seals. Nothing like what I have on my other bikes… This looks like it could be the early internal o-ring type seal, which I understand had been superseded by the external ones I am used to, by 1980. So I need to do more digging on this. That being said, when we started the bike with the (pro) seller chief mechanic, there was absolutely no smoking from the exhaust. We did that inside too, so I would have noticed burnt oil fumes in the shop.
