1260 Eccentric Hub Refresh

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by freshage, Dec 4, 2024.

  1. That too, forgot that I used my heat gun first.
     
  2. Id say someone has been using the rattle gun to do up the nuts :confused:. It’s not uncommon, I see it all the time. Lazy tyre changers or worse mechanics.
     
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  3. Andy when you say that's enough to release the roller bearing, what did you use to pull it out?
    Just your hands or a specific tool? Thanks.

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    #23 Mike 999, Feb 6, 2025
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2025
  4. The sequence is to remove the needle roller bearing first. I found that soaking the hub (sealed in a plastic bag) in a bucket of boiled water, (or use a heat gun) the bearing can be released by ‘slapping the hub, bearing down, on a block of wood. The bearing is not a tight fit. Once that is out, there is a spacer between the 2 bearings and I just jury rigged a length of threaded bar, nuts, washers and a selection of 1/2” and 3/4” drive sockets to push the double roller out. Sounds very Heath Robinson but I’ve done it several times on 3 different bikes. Andy
     
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  5. Thanks. Only one more question. The double roller comes out from the same side as the needle bearing or comes out from its own side (the side without the teeth)? Which way do I push it out?
     
  6. From its own side. The hub casting prevents the bearings coming through from 1 side. Andy
     
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  7. Thanks for your help. Both of them came out very easly like that.
    One thing I didn't check before removing the second bearing was the side of the spacer.
    It's the side in the picture the correct one or is it the other way around when I put the new one back?
    Also do I grease the back of the bearing rollers? The ones in contact with the hub

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  8. Just watched a video on YT and this is the way he puts it back in ... thicker side to the teeth side, hope he's correct as I won't be held responsible but watching his full video he seems very knowledgeable

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  9. From 11th min
     
  10. Another video... also explaining it is directional and pits it back the same, thick side part of the spacer to teeth side

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  11. The spacer does only go in one way to sit correctly :D Andy
     
  12. Thanks everyone for the replies.
     
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  13. I thought I may post picture of the final work in case they could help someone.

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  14. dont take this the wrong way but its all back together and looks like every bike with the wheel and chain off but there are plenty of helpful tips in the thread you started :upyeah:
     
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  15. no wrong way at all. I wasn't even sure myself if it would make any difference.
     
  16. How did the old bearings look?
    Any sign of wear or corrosion?
     
  17. the RNA4910-2RS IKO
    looked totally fine to me.
    the BAH0175 SKF (VKBC-20199)
    looked like you could move the metal ring inside, sideways quite a bit. So I presume was close to fail, if not failed already.
     
  18. @Mike 999 I see the grease is blue, doesn't matter, but I noticed no one responded to you asking which grease to use. If going by the workshop manual, it's SKF LGWA 2. I'm mentioning now as I've been waiting for the grease to arrive before I slap in the new bearings and it finally arrived this morning.
     
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  19. Thanks. I've used the grease given to me by a friend of mine, which he uses it in drag racing and so on. Should be top notch bearing grease.
    https://www.kendallmotoroil.com/category/greases/

    It better be cause I ain't opening that stuff again any time soon
     
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  20. Welp, started the refresh today... Needless to say, rusty grease is never a nice sight... I'm glad I'm doing this now before it became a noticeable problem.

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