"Here's probably the best description of "how to" around. Taken from the FIM website. The only addition i would make would be the backing off of the balance bar mentioned above. You MUST set the TPS to the front butterfly being closed, not the rear holding the front open. • Set the Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle shaft. To correctly do this you must: o Completely back off the idle stop screws on both throttle bodies. o Use the Mathesis tester or a Digital MilliVoltMeter to read the throttle sensor voltage. To do this you should tap the butterfly with your finger to ensure that the butterfly is completely closed against the body. Then you turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on the throttle sensor: P7 or P8 ECU: Pins 11 and 17. 1.6M ECU: Pins 16 and 30. 1.5M ECU: Pins 22 and 11. o If the sensor does not read 150mV Plus or Minus 2mV then you need to adjust it: Slacken the lock screws on the throttle sensor using a screwdriver or 7mm socket. Carefully move the sensor whilst reading the voltage. Retighten the lock screws a little at a time, each time reading the voltage and adjusting the sensor. Note that you should probably overshoot the reading by about 5mV on slack screws, because when you tighten them the reading will change by about 5mV. Repeat until perfect. This takes a lot of practice. o The factory manuals specify +/- 5mV but we feel that this is not accurate enough. many owners will attest to the difference in performance when the sensor is set perfectly. o Re-set the throttle stop screw (or screws) so that the engine idles at around 1200 rpm. This is not a final setting for the stop screws, merely a step in the procedure. Typically this will produce a voltage of around 300mV on the TPS. This value is completely arbitrary and is not important. Many people misunderstand the factory manual in this regard and will try resetting the TPS until they get 1200 rpm idle and exactly 300mV on the sensor. THIS IS WRONG !!!. The actual voltage on the sensor at idle is irrelevant to correct sensor positioning on the throttle shaft. Trust Me !! • Synchronise the Butterflies: o Close the airbleed screws completely by adjusting CLOCKWISE. If you don't do this then the throttle vacuum will still reflect any air passing through the bleed channels and the butterflies will not be perfectly synched. o Attach vacuum gauges to the manifold port on each cylinder and run the engine. o Adjust the throttle butterfly link shaft until vacuum is identical. o Rev the engine and confirm that vacuum tracks on both cylinders throughout the throttle and RPM range. o Re-adjust the link shaft until satisfactory results are obtained. o Do Not adjust the throttle link shaft after this point.!! • Set the IDLE Balance by adjusting the airbleed screws counterclockwise and confirming that the vacuum is identical for both cylinders at idle. You can rev the engine and observe vacuum tracking through the rev range, and then observe idle vacuum restabilising. NOTE Since the airbleeds are designed to iron out any irregularities in the throttle's function, by their nature there is no default setting, unlike the idle screws on a carburettor. If anything the default setting is fully closed. Airbleeds can also be balanced using a 2 channel CO meter. In this case, just adjust the bleeds until both cylinders have the same CO. • Adjust the IDLE Mixture. Finally you get to set the CO Trimmer ! This will affect both cylinders by the same amount, so you need to set the airbleeds first. A typical CO figure for idle is 4% to 6%, but automotive regulations usually specify a CO of under 1% to meet emmissions standards. A V-twin will idle very poorly if the CO is set below 1%, so if you are really bothered try a setting of about 3%. Note that you may need to finesse the airbleeds at this stage. • Adjust the IDLE RPM. Set the idle rpm at the manufacturer's figure (usually 1100 - 1200 rpm) by adjusting the throttle butterfly stop screw (or screws). We recommend 1200 rpm for Ducatis and Guzzis, possibly 1500 rpm for Ducati 996SPS models. • Finally, note that the last three steps are usually repeated until an acceptable balance of Idle Balance, Idle Mixture, and Idle RPM are obtained. This is normal. Do Not adjust the throttle synchronisation link shaft once it is set in the early stages. If you do this now, you will need to go through the entire sequence again. So hopefully you will have an engine which now idles, accelerates, and delivers full power faultlessly. Again, if you are not confident about all of these steps, then we suggest you use a dealer who has the skills and equipment. It is not worth adjusting the CO trimmer unless the entire sequence is followed without skipping any steps." Enjoy
As fun as it sounds, I can only pray that I will avoid this odious task for as long as possible. I do, however love jewels from the crypt of the internet. Duane Mitchell was a former ducati factory tech before founding Fuel Injected Motorcycles, I believe. Seems like he was he was the type of bloke who would say "I've actually found a better way of doing this!" only to be told "We don't do that here."
I wonder if any one has used this method to set the TPS, I’m considering having a go on my 94 916 but I’m worried it might be beyond me I’m only an oul brickie but I’m not afraid to get stuck in, now I don’t know if that’s a good thing or not.
This method is the best you can use to set your injection. Brad Black describes the same thing here: http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati4vthrottleb.html There’s a wonderful sense of accomplishment when you set your injection right. Again, this should be done after the valve clearances are set exactly where you want /need them. The whole sequence actually is: Valve clearances>TPS>Synchro>Idle mixture (%CO-AFR). With all this done in the correct order, you’ll get a much better throttle response and a better mileage.
Good description, my findings; I find that I need to adjust the balance bar to ensure that the front throttle closes fully by knowing that rear is not closed and holding the front. Unclipping the rear isn't good enough IMO as you lose some of the return spring strength meaning you get variable results from one closure to the next plus, the ball joint thingy doesn't look that strong to be disconnected regularly. I don't know why some say to never touch it - how do you know it was right in the first place? plus, it's easy enough to balance the throttles again afterwards. Once you are 100% certain that the front is fully closed (may even need to loosen the 2 screws holding the plate to the spindle in the butterfly valve to get it perfectly central - I did the first time), then set your 150mv so that it is consistently reading 150 on closing the throttle time after time (I fitted an external 2-way connector under the seat to the ECU for an easy voltmeter connection). Then starting with air bleeds fully closed set the idle to suit - ignore the voltage reading, 300mv would have mine racing away, IIRC mine idles nicely at around 1300rpm (light flywheel) with around 180mv on the TPS. I find mine likes the CO to be around 4-5%, adjust from the trimmer if required and fine tune/balance individually with air bleeds if necessary. I use a Morgan carbtune for balancing, combined with a CO meter and voltmeter and some patience yields great results As above, you may need to back and forth a few times with regards to the balancing and CO levels but setup correctly, they run beautifully smoothly, at least mine does.
[QUOTE="Dukedesmo, (I fitted an external 2-way connector under the seat to the ECU for an easy voltmeter connection) It would be great to see how you did that connection if you wouldn’t mind.
Rather than cut into any wires, I removed the large plug from the ECU, opened it (screws together) and then soldered a length of 2-core cable onto the appropriate pins (16 & 30, according to the description above - but I would check with the wiring diagram and actually test before soldering). The length of cable can then exit from the plug alongside the existing cable so that it is all water tight etc. and I then fitted a 2 way screw-terminal block so that I can positively connect the multimeter probes into the TPS voltage (0-5v IIRC), That way I can leave it connected even whilst running the engine rather than having to hold probes through broken insulation and risk short circuit or corrosion due to water getting into the wires. Pic. of ECU and the wire/terminal block;
