I’ve stupidly allowed myself to get to the point where I need to change the belts on 3 of my bikes this year. When I had my M900 and 900SS I didn’t get on with trying to work with fishing spring type scales. But found using a 5mm and 6mm Allen Key as ‘Feeler gauges worked really well for me. On my M1000, 1000SS, and 999 I’ve had to move on to the hertz measurement. I tried several apps on my phone but couldn’t get results that were consistent enough for my liking. But, I brought a small mic for my Laptop and found the JP Diag belt measuring option far better, so that’s what I’ve been using. You also get to see what’s going on with a trace rather than a momentary measurement. As I have to do the M1000, 1000SS and 999 this year I’m not adverse to buying something to make life even easier, especially as the 1000SS and 999 are keepers for the foreseeable future. However, at some point in the near future there will also be a Dessert X, or possibly 1260 Enduro in my life. Looking at what’s available I’ve discounted the Lowener gauge as it doesn’t look like it will fit round the frame etc and there appears to be some confusion on the value to use for each type of engine. There is the Texa type Ducati tool, which is a nice compact way to measure the frequency with a ‘mic on a stick’ making it easy to position. But you still need to pluck the belt consistently and don’t see a trace. The other option is the Facom, (DM 16??) This looks to be a great option as far as I’m concerned because it doesn’t rely on plucking the belt, measuring frequency etc, and appeals to my need for a ‘Yes or No’ consistent result. A couple of hundred quid is appealing for my peace of mind and ease of use. Does anyone use one? What’s it like? Would it fit my current bikes and future planned bikes? Is the data available for all the above? Ta.
I've got a Facom guage, easy to use and works well on the 916, sits between the cam pullies but doesn't work on the M900 due to there being no belt run long enough with access to fit it on. The go/no-go allen key setup works fine on the M900 IMO and whilst I've toyed with ultrasonic/app I found it a bit hit & miss and when it did work it just confirmed what I'd already done mechanically with the Facom or allen keys plus a 'belt twist'.
I bought a Facom years ago when I had an ST4s but I've hardly ever used it since as it's quite bulky and requires room for fitting it which isn't always available on many engines and on none of the 2V ones
I use the Gates Carbon Drive app which works consistently. Just need to make sure there’s minimal/no background noise and hold the phone’s microphone as close as possible to the belt without touching it. Here’s one I did earlier this week, aiming for 99Hz. The last reading of 37 was as I pulled the phone away to screen shot it for my file. There had been several other 98Hz readings just before the last 3. I’ll also use the Allen key method on 2V bikes.
I really didn't get on well with the gates app and my phone, but it's possibly due to the phone I had at the time. As mentioned the Allen key method I really felt comfortable with, but I was told not to use it on the newer bikes, including my 1000cc twin plug engines. I've failed to find any instructions for the Facom online. How does it work?
I couldn't get the Gates app to work on my previous Pixel (Android) phone when I needed it, but I just loaded it to my new Pixel and great - it works. Nice and simple and good to have the previous 3 measurements there I used the 5mm Allen key method for my 2V. Frequency measurement for my 939 Hyper (Testastretta), but not that easy to do with the frequency-measurement app I had to use. I reckon a directional external microphone could help.
I think that's why I find the JPDiag option on my Laptop with an external Mic so good. You can get the mic right in next to the belt rather than alongside it. Similar to the Ducati Texa tool.
I thought that the Ducati workshop tool was an optical device - thus removing all effects of extraneous sounds
Have now found this: Which suggests the tension for each belt is purely dependant on the thickness of the belt, regardless of anything else like what engine you are working on. Can that be correct? .
The Texa tool is excellent. Very reliable and consistent. Isn’t really affected by background noises and presents no access issues, on any bike. Pretty much since 2006, all tensions are quoted in Hz. The old tools measured deflection and while they worked very well, I still use my original tool on desmo quattro motors, there’s no real figures for the later engines. I tried the facom tool back in the day, may still have it, but the button suggested for the Ducati belts of the time didn’t give the correct tension. IIRC, it suggested using button 5 when it was in fact button 6 that gave the correct tension?…. I’ve compared some of the phone apps against the Texa tool and most were out and not very consistent. The gates app was pretty good but a lot depends on the hardware…..the phone or mic. If you’re serious about investing in a solid reliable tool, then get the Texa. It’s a no brainer and not worth adding the risk of getting it wrong into the job.
I use the JP Diag belt tensioning software. With a small mike connected to my old « garage » laptop. It works a treat. It does take a little practice to pinch the belt correctly and in the correct place so it « rings ». I actually now developed a technique where I can hear the sound/note the belt makes before measuring. Once I am there, I can do 6 or 7 measurements within 2 or 3 Hz back to back, no problem. But you need a quiet place to work (turn the music off, tell the kids to piss off…). And as @Nasher mentioned, having a persistent trace of the last measure (in yellow) as well as a red marker for the value you are aiming at feels very comfortable. With a bit of practice, I can get much better readings (nice isolated peak) than the pic below. I also enjoy playing with my 916 vintage tool every now and then…
With regards to the setting, I found this info when I first bought the Facom; I use it as per the above and have verified tension against various other means and found it to be good. Been using it for many years without bother. I'll be on it again soon as I've got belts to do on both the 916 and Monster but, as mentioned earlier it's no use on the old 2v engine due to space requirements.
Thanks all, really appreciate your input. Although perhaps I'm a little more undecided than ever now I've had a look and yes, like the Lowener, it doesn't look like I could use the Facom on my 1000SS or M1000 due to space constraints, and as the SS is a keeper I'll probably have to give up on that idea. Despite 1000s of people doing it, and it being the recommended way, the whole flicking of the belt thing just doesn't sit well with me because of the inconsistent results I've had in the past. Saying that, and as Guillaume69 has agreed, the JPDiag option and trace I have had some pretty consistent results with, I believe because I'm using a small Mic inside the belt run rather than outside it. The Texa looks to be quite readily available, if a little expensive, but is a nice neat solution, which I'll investigate more.
couldn't get the gates app to work either but the "hutchinson smart belt drive" app and with the mic of my wired ear piece ( iphone) it was easy and repeatable. had used gates app successfully previously but no joy this time
Quick update. Having sold a few bits and pieces recently my Bike bits Paypal account was looking quite healthy, and a used Ducati branded Texa popped up on Ebay for a good price compared to the new generic Texa branded ones. What else was I supposed to do? If I don’t get on with it I’m sure somebody else on here will take it off my hands for what I paid for it.
