1260 Headstock Bearings

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by freshage, Mar 3, 2025 at 9:47 AM.

  1. This is a job I've never done, have avoided and am now faced with...

    I'm in the midst of a winter rebuild with a number of mods and improvements. One of those being dropping my forks through 5mm, after completing this job after many hours remeasuring I noticed a notch in the headstock bearings. So, I might as well learn how to do it and order the tools today.

    For those that have done it, any advice? Anything to keep an eye out for?
     
  2. Watch some YouTube videos. I've had mine replaced on both my 1200DVT and now my 1260. I recommend buying a set of taper roller bearings, rather than the OE roller bearings. They are not expensive, about £35 if I remember correctly, and they deal with side thrust the head bearings are put under far better than ball bearings.
    I didn't do the job my self, partly because I don't have a heat gun or mains power to my garage, to warm the headstock tube. Make sure the bearing cups are fully seated or you will be adjusting the bearings several times over the next few hundred miles, as I found out!
     
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  3. I did it a few months back on my GT, used the standard ball bearing type, figured they'd lasted 12 years and 53000 miles so can't be too bad. Need the special tool for the 'nut' on the top yolk, it's cheap off eBay etc. once you have the stem out, you'll need to remove the outer bearing races from the top and bottom of the headstock which can be done with a suitable long drift, even a long flat headed screwdriver, tapping each side to keep the race level until they fall out. Apply heat if you need to with a paint stripper type electric gun. Inner race on the bottom of the yolk just needs a sharp chisel in between the yolk and the race, firm hit either side and it should start to move. There are various fancy bearing pullers which 'could' make the job a bit easier but I've never needed anything other than normal 'shed' tools for this job.
    Reassemble with plenty of grease. There is a recommended torque for the top 'special' nut but, I found that a bit too loose so I went by feel as with any other bike I've done, steering needs to move smoothly but not drop harshly to either side when you let go of the bars.
     
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