V4 V4s Quickshifter

@Mark Arnold
I may have to replace the Annitori QS on my Monster 1200R.
Why Cordona?

 

They aren't very robust, had mine changed under warranty

 

I've noticed that on my new Rally the quickshifter can be a bit reluctant to move up or down when loaded up during medium to aggressive engine braking. I assume that is just the way they work...not really an issue just an observation.

And, how come its taken me over 30 years of riding to discover quickshifters? Why didn't anybody tell me that they are the Dugzbwaz?!

 

No issues with mine at 7k , like hot knife thro butter . Maybe a software update ?

 

User error!

 

I still forget I’ve got one!

 

The last software update smoothed mine out. Occasional fail to hit 4th from 3rd under hard acceleration, but rare.
Overall very happy, and having ridden some other manufacturers oem shifters the Ducati one is certainly no worse.

 

I’ve owned a 2018 Panigale V4S from new. Right from the beginning the OE quick shifter has had a sketchy reputation. Mine was fine but I changed it out for an aftermarket HM anyway. So far so good.

As has been intimated, positive gear changes help with troubleshooting.

 

I fitted a Ducabike gear lever, it's mounted on a bearing rather than friction material, it gives much better changes, don't miss any up or down shifts. I often use the rear brake a bit when changing down in the lower gears at lower revs makes shifts very smooth.

 

I did the same. The difference is noticeable. I’m thinking it’s down to the fact that the part your toe contacts is not on any sort of hinge and a harder rubber/plastic. Either way it’s better. Wasn’t that bad before mind but could be a bit laggy at times.

 

I’m on my second V4 MTS. First was a V4S. Second is a V4 Rally. QS on both has been near-perfect.
Mind you, I’ve come from a succession of GSs, so it’s not surprising I think the Ducati one is an improvement

 

I find mine is pretty much perfect when shifting up , going down seems a bit difficult & clunky depending on revs at the time, certainly not as smooth when going up the gears when on the gas.
May try the Ducabike shifter .

 

Correct chain adjustment is crucial for the quick shifter to work smoothly. I was adjusting my chain when on the side stand to line the rivets up with the lines on the adjuster tool: only to realise after reading the manual that I should gave been pushing down on the chain to align the rivets with the lines. works seamlessly , up or down. If you have a tight spot in the chain,, this can effect the shifter, making it inconsistent; sometimes perfect, sometimes not.

 

My take on Up / Down quick shifters is that they're excellent for the race track where motors are regularly pulled apart but consider the consequences of a failure on the road, bent selectors - chipped teeth and the possibility of seizure and hence body and terra firma in contact. Manufacturers are in business to sell, and that includes gearbox parts to replace worn componentry. I did have an Up shifter on the Greeves Silverstone raced in the '70's, a horn button when depressed momentarily cut the ignition.
Why not learn and master the art of brain / hand / foot co-ordination and dispense with these flavour of the month nick nacks.
(Auld Luddite, 70+ year motorcycling and counting).

 

Plus find the tight spot , I have marked mine so I have a reference point , but also check occasionally to see if that spot has changed and adjust accordingly.

 

You are correct. I was following the instructions for when the chain is new. It has now had its first service and the chain was adjusted again, by the method you rightly said

 

If you want to get the chain adjustment really consistent and make it easier to perform then try it on the center stand. First adjust it perfectly on the side stand with the supplied gauge as instructed. Then put the bike up on the center stand and remark the gauge with a Sharpie where the new setting should be. Adjusting on the side stand doesn't seem to me to be particularly consistent due that the bike doesn't always end up with the same lean. I find it harder to do as well with the bike leaned over (but I'm old so there's that...). The center stand setting is always consistent since the rear wheel is off the ground and the shock is at full extension regardless of the preload setting. Its also easier to loosen/tighten the axle nut and make your adjustments when the bike is straight up and stable. Give it a try

I assume that the factory specifies the procedure to be done on the side stand due that the basic bike doesn't have a center stand but for those of us that do have a center stand it seems like a better way to go.

Marc