1200 Headlight Wobble / Shake

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Stavrich, Mar 21, 2025.

  1. Multi 1200s 2013
    I was going over a bad road with too many potholes, very slowly, and I was getting a clanking noise from the front of the bike.

    I don't think is the suspension but I suspect it could be from the headlight. I checked the headlight holding screws and they seem to be tight and also the rubber pad is present.

    Posting a short video to show the headlight movement and hopefully you can check yours and let me know whether is normal or definitely something wrong with mine.

    https://dai.ly/kfVdDHaFzR2guoCHQWQ

    (tried to use the Media button but I failed hence the link)
     
  2. Headlight movement is entirely normal, the knocking you describe is commonly caused by one of a few things - Side stand, centre stand or brass balls.

    Assuming you've not got brass balls, I'd say what you heard (if you're certain it was from the front and not the afore mentioned stands) is the forks dropping out if the pot holes were that bad and deep. And knowing the state of British roads now, I'd hazard a guess at the latter.

    When ever I think there is a knock/creak or scream I should be concerned about, I find a carpark with some kerbs and ride up and down until I narrow down the noise. You might find it's a simple answer doing so.
     
  3. A common issue with the Öhlins shod 2010/2012 1200, was the front spring cartridge needed re-shimming after time/mileage. I’m not sure the Sachs version needed the same but maybe worth asking the question. Andy
     
  4. Already took headlight off. All bolts found to be tight.
    But all 4 bolts go through rubber spacers which means allows the headlight some movement - @freshage - 100% right.

    The nuts, standoffs, look secured.

    Put all back, used medium thread lock and torque all 4 bolts to 5Nm.

    More tests to follow as per advice. First check done already and definitely brass balls not there anymore :(

    @Android853sp - Already looked at the Ohlins issue but nothing similar for the Sachs found... yet.
     
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  5. The Sachs can clonk on full extension, when the suspension tops out.
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  6. I checked this out and I am sure I get the clonk on full extension. Is there a solution?

    Also, I get a clonk if I bounce/push down the front with the front brake on. Not sure if is coming from the brakes or forks. Brake bolts are tight.
     
  7. The clonk you're talking about with the brakes on, are you sure that's not the pads shifting?

    Sounds like there's no issues other than understanding here.
     
  8. You can try winding off some preload on the right leg, if you have any wound on? The further the forks are away from full extension, the less likely it is to top out.
    I rebuilt both legs with the overhaul kits, new bushes, spacers etc and never had the 'clunk' again.
    Also check your headrace bearings, mine were totally shot, that can also cause some weird noises, along with odd handling.

    Edit: it's easy to get the wrong fork oil in the bike too, Ducati manual isn't clear and many replace with 7.5wt which 'can' be too heavy. Fork oil manufacturers have no set standard for fork oil weight, one make of 7.5wt can be very different to another make of 7.5wt, it's complicated! I made this mistake with my first fork service, next time I rebuilt with 3.5wt Rock oil and the difference was very noticeable, much plusher ride with great absorbtion over the UK's terrible road surfaces.
     
    #8 GTmorgan, Apr 4, 2025
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2025
  9. @GTmorgan - Very good suggestions, thank you, and decided to double check my preload first. I had it set to 3 turns in but decided to set the preload to zero,
    - measure the stanchion extension
    - set preload to the max 10 turns and measure the stanchion again

    To my surprise the difference was just 1mm. This is not right, is it?

    Expected to see at around 10mm change or have I got everything wrong...
     
  10. Well if you're measuring stick is right, it must be right, never measured it without load myself to be honest.
    You're figures should be different with the rider onboard. Try is with zero preload and see if it clonks less, or not at all.
    I found it worse with weight on the back, as in loaded top box.
     
  11. Will take measurements again with me on.
    Also, replaced the fork fluid, was bit overdue, with Torco RSF fluid - Light. Is the nearest spec I could find closest to the Ducati recommended OJ RACING SPECIAL FORK Sae 3.6 at 100 at 40°14.4. Already can feel the difference :)
     
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