After 4k of faultless riding in 6 months since I've had her (15,4k total) on the way home last night pulled out of a junction into second and bike cut out. Tried to restart as coasting clutch in but bike didn't turn over. Normal dash error lies of abs scu des engine light . I have electronic suspension delete and manual conversion fork tops and ttx go rear shock and manual steering damper. Rolled down ahill and tried to bump and she turned over fine but wouldn't fire so Pulled over somewhere safe. AA brought me home pretty quickly. Had a quick look this morning and fuel pump doesn't prime and there are two relay clicks then nothing and dash errors pop up. I have a scanner coming to read the codes as my laptop broke as I did have the fee diagnostic software so i can't use that and prefer a specific tool. In the mean time any thoughts based on the symptoms? Underseat Black box unit, wiring connections? Later today will go over basic wiring and plugs etc. Was nice lots of bikers stopped and car drivers, love the bike comaradery, even if most took the friendly piss about a Ducati breaking down
maybe not relevant, but when ever i see a brake down where the symptoms described over the phone are ABS, Air bag ect warnings on the dash the first thing going through my head is it a charging fault.
Agree, the first port of call for me would be the battery. See what the voltage drop is when you crank it over. Second port of call would be relays. Andy
Thanks I did think about power but voltage fine and have jump pack to test I just mad a good start and found the key sense 10a fuse was blown, I swapped it out with a spare and fuel pump primed and bike started briefly then cut out with same errors, checked fuse and blown again So what is the keysense fuse controling, ignition switch? Anything else as seems I need to follow that cabling and sensors/switches
Seems its a common issue and a ground leak somewhere can be anything from indicators , aftermarket electrical modifications, pinched wires. Egh hate electronics, love to rip it all out and have a simple standalone ECU and none of these gadgets and gizmos, fuel injection is the only electronic advancement that was any good, everything else while can be a benefit is always just a failure point. Grumble grumble old man mode lol
Posting as these are a nightmare and always others who come along with similar problems like me haha so annoying when not a resolution to a thread. So mapped out wiring diagram for red blue line Connect to 1.Right hand control start stop (I have messed with this and is jet prime) 2.secindaery air actuator (I have messed with this deleted due to slip one) 3.abs 4.fuel relay 5.horizontal O2 sensor 6.vertical O2 sensor (messed with this when changing carbon shield) 7.fused solinoid (think that's starter solenoid) 8. Oh mystery unlabeled sensor is purge solonoid, that evap?? If so that's deleted So will start with the bits I messed with as likely them, maybe jetprime rh control as they are on the throttle so I would have yanked that when accelerating and it cut out out. Stupid printer wouldn't scale diagram
does deleted still mean connected but just mapped out? if poss, i would just have a handful of fuses and disconnect a component at a time until fuse stop blowing. if they dont i guess you have a short in the wiring or + to ground.
With my RSV4 it kept blowing a fuse as soon as I turned it on (would lose dash) and it ended up being the rear speed sensor had got to close to the exhaust and burnt through. I tried resoldering and connecting it but that didn’t help. Had to get a new sensor. I found it by disconnecting the components using that fuse….went through a few fuses….lol edit: just wanted to show I never would have looked at that but modern electronics are wonderful system….lol
So all the deleted bits have decent brand eliminators as.i can't be doing with engine lights. I got a 30 pack of 10 resistors as one this would be trial and error. First I unplugged the jetprime Rh control and plugged in the stock one but still blew even before starting Then thought about O2 sensors as maybe bagged rear one up doing shield possibly pinched cable rerouting it. I have a O2 delete kit I had yet to fir, so that was a quick test, and we'll instantly was happy no blown fuse. I waffles every wire on that red blue loop to make sure wasn't a one off, reconnected jetprim control. Still ran happily. Put all back together, still happy Left it idling with odd blip still happy. Just did 15 minutes of looping round the block as didn't want to push it back too far if it blew again All good, and probably in my head and I need to go on a proper ride to get into closed loop (open loop I never Remember which way round) but throttle felt great and some of the minor surgy hesitation seemed to be gone. But I totally accept that's in my head as on my local test ride.was probably not using O2 readings But seems problem solved either cable or one of O2 sensors perished and tripping out fuse. Thanks for all.thr suggestions, and logical working through the wiring diagram is not as daunting as you may think it just looks horrible. So rather than throwing into a shop where they would have charged 2-3 hours and a new O2 at probably £500 all in I spent £3.49 on 30 fuses (yes I already had £80 O2 eliminator kit ) On a side not I have bungs to take it the O2 sensors I gues leaving in heated O2 sensors in will kill them quick quick? Thanks all again Oh and as side reward I fitted a fancy bikesport developments lh control
Well my 1299s hates the O2 delete crusing in 5th at 80 bogs down with any throttle. Will get map at some point to delete them as part of other work, tried clearing temp fuel tables but that just made it worse. So went to look closer for the actual issue so can put o2 back on and cable looked fine so pulled the sensor and it's mashed, was not in exhaust very tight and seems the plastic / epoxy that separates the wires is gone and wires have been pulled so all bare and shorting on sensor body and each other. You can see front of sensor is how it should look. Glad to find the 100% cause as nothing worse than fixing an electrical issue accidentally as you wait for it to come back
aye, but that doesn't pay the bills does it. chortle. yip, nice bit of diagnostic. always gives you buzz when correctly identified.
Cheers chaps it Gauls me to put a bike into a shop but I'll be honest I hate electrical gremlins so the temptation to get AA to drop.it off at the shop was real haha, but much more rewarding and cheaper at 200 squid plus for a new O2 I just split and slid on some wire insulation and then used 2 part epoxy to seal and lock it all inplace and as an extra layer of insulation. Just did 85 miles of pretty full on fast paced B road riding with a friendly CBR up my chuff for 20 miles of it and she was faultless. Happy days
