Just while the sub frame is off.... Is there any point in reconnecting the Flapper valve cables or will it give an error? I assume the motor needs to be connected to not give the dash error.... Can anyone verify?
Unless it's disabled in the ECU you will get a MIL on the dash. There is a gizmo on eBay that is supposed to fool the motor into thinking the cables are still attached, but I've heard mixed results. Best bet is to consign the cables and motor to the parts bin. PM me if you want to disable it.
I'd like to.... I thought about disconnecting the cables but leaving it plugged in til I can afford dyno time...
This is the Gizmo http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATi-10...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item258458bb3e If you ask on the forum I'm sure there will be someone with one gathering dust.
Eh.... So if I just disconnect the cables that's not enough... Plus, that other bypass gizmo plugged into the loom.... Never seen this one before...
The valve goes to the end stops and if this is not "seen" then it throws an error. Cheap way is to buy or fabricate a cam to go on the motor. The fix the valve open by either fixing the cables in the right place, or rremove the cables and fix it at the valve end.
Don't understand. If I disconnect the cables then the motor will do its movement, but the valve in the exhaust is in its open state (at the moment) as I can see down the pipe and its open. So how does the motor know if the cables are connected or not?
The motor will move, butdoes it not detect the it getting "tight" or stopped? That is why there is the cam to put in there. It makes the think there is the cables attached.
If you take the cables off the spring in the EXBV keeps the valve in the fully open position (this is the default position).
sod it - easier to put it back together until I can afford dyno time....ill do the air filter then at the same time....no idea which way round the cables went though....that should be interesting... Saying that - i can only find one cable in the garage - plus the part where the cable/s connect i can only see one side has been used so i guess theres one cable only on mine...
Still learning here but the flapper only stays in the closed position while the bike starts for emissions.....so no performance loss? don't get me wrong - its going eventually - its just not really hindering performance at the moment I take it....
It's an angle grinder job to cut the spindle for the valve off enough for the valve to be pushed into the exhaust. A good tap with a drift gets it out of the exhaust. The holes either side then need welding up. Just done this mod on an eBay purchase for £12, just need to fit it on my 1198.
Ah - just been in the garage to have a look....my theory was to get a drill down into the pipe and drill those 2 screws out then, the disc would fall away from the bar - so the flapper still has resistance to think its turning the flapper valve but is in fact just twisting the bar...that way I wont need to do any welding - based on the fact I don't have a welder.... What was the ebay purchase?? got a link...
It was the mid pipe section from a 1198 If you can get at those two posi-drive screws then your plan may work. Unfortunately I had to do it the hard way.
Yeah. It's a shitter they're round the other way otherwise you could just unscrew them.... Reckon I can do it though.... B&q for me tomorrow....
Give me something to do while I'm waiting for the powder coating.... I just noticed...im a senior member - how'd that happen then??
