major service times

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by mark bevan, Dec 7, 2013.

  1. Thanks for the advice Phil.

    The bike is running well and would have to have far more miles on it to justify a compression test IMO.

    I have just removed the upper head cover to clean off the sealant from around the rubber seal.

    A bike mechanic mate is going to check/replace the valve shims, if required, and I will get him to replace the belts at the same time.

    Mine has the deep sump - has anyone removed the filter in it. Can it be cleaned or do you have to replace it and the O rings?

    Regards,

    Mark.
     
  2. A few more,
    2 in the forks
    1 in the shock
    1 in the crankcase breather
    1 thermostat valve
    1 pressure relief valve in oil pump
    2 butterfly valves in throttle bodies

    Any more..?

    Sorry for the off-topic mark :wink:
     
  3. No problem - all interesting information.
     
  4. While my bike is an SS so it a lot more simple, I have found the following idiosyncrasies...

    They just LOVE fresh plugs, they make a huge difference.

    Chain tension and condition is critical, not too tight, not too loose and clean and well lubed are vital

    Electrics are fine, no reason why they shouldn't be.

    The earring points on the engine need to be clean and tight, a wire brush, and a liberal smear of silicone grease on the earthing point will greatly aid hot starting.

    Silicone grease is actually an insulator, but the earth point itself will make contact and the grease will exclude oxygen around it, preventing corrosion. Put the cable onto the earth point wriggle it around a bit (cuts a nice new surface on its connectors plating) then tighten it down. On the pantah engine the earth point itself also screws into the engine casing. Take the cable off the earth point, then unbolt the earth point from the casing. Clean all mating surfaces and liberally coat everything in grease.
     
  5. Given how shallow the Allen bolts are on the cam belt tensioners I'd also advise changing the bolts when changing the belts - the head is very shallow, and you'll be in a world if inconvenience if you round one off.
     
    #25 philoldsmobile, Dec 14, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2013
  6. Will do and thanks for the great advice.

    Cleaning all the electric connections is high on the list - as is replacing all the fuses and relays. Save the old ones for spares!
     
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  7. I'll buy new bolts and the guy who fits the new belts can fit them - thanks.
     
    #27 mark bevan, Dec 15, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2013
  8. Just pulled the fuel relay out of the holder and hopefully found out why the fuel pump runs with the ignition turned off - the connections on the relay were full of crud and corrosion.
     
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  9. Hi Mark
    Just checked my relay having got spares from ebay (there is a link on here somewhere ) it was starting to corrode so good advice (i dont think my bike had seen a wet road for many a year ) so ive relocated it above the battery box with silicon grease and a nice cut off finger from the Mrs yellow rubber gloves , schhhhush dont tell her .
    Also changed spark plugs, brake and clutch fluid and fuel filter .
    Timing belts will be done in the spring by local bike dealer , non ducati BUT they have a mechanic with previous Ducati dealer experience .
     
  10. Hi Chase.

    If your handy with a spanner then the belts seem not too difficult. I will do mine if the mechanic I know can't do the valves & belts.

    There's a good series of videos on u tube showing exactly how to do it. The only special tool you need is to turn the crank - £45 on ebay.
     
  11. Thats a good price for the crank tool.

    You can do without the crank tool (at least on 2v engines you can, and I see no reason why 4v motors would be any different)

    Take the plugs out (change them when doing a big service anyway) take the clutch cover off and use the clutch to turn the engine. You will need the clutch cover off to blow the dust out on a dry clutch bike anyway.

    You obviously can't do this on a wet clutch bike, Where the crank tool is a lot more important, but for dry clutch bikes it works well. It's better to do the belts with the plugs out anyway, as it bakes turning the engine far easier whichever method you use.
     
    #31 philoldsmobile, Dec 17, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2013
  12. Thanks - you've just saved me the cost of one!

    Will chase-up to see if the mechanic I know can check the valve shims. I've got the prices for the parts.
     
    #32 mark bevan, Dec 18, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2013
  13. I just use the rear wheel.
     
  14. when u check your clearances and find they are slightly out , just by fitting new half rings will probably bring the clearances back into tolerance!
     
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  15. Thanks John,

    Just spoken to the mechanic and he is set to do the work - he knows a Ducati mechanic who will come and sort the valve clearances and replace the belts all in one.

    He will collect the bike in the new year.
     
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