Emulsion tubes, float assemblies, diaphragms? Hell, even more money to burn......... .............the emulsion tubes wear because of the needle going up and down.........If the hole in the top of the emulsion tube is oval and not round, it is worn. Jet? Possibly not needed to change them........... The pdf below might help you............but ignore the jet sizes and the terrible descriptions of each item.........
I have just rebuilt the carb I stripped yesterday. Does any one have or know where I can get the little o ring and washer that goes on the end of the air mixture screw? The spring is there but no washer or seal.
Have a good look inside the carb body where the screw locates.........they often get stuck in there.........be careful easing it out..........don't scratch the seat in the body itself. But you can get them from Allens as far as I am aware........I did anyway.
Managed to find it, the new seals etc arrived today. One carb is ball built ready to go. Also the oil pipes to the bottom of the carbs, are the for warming or something?
They do make a difference, not a huge one. and to see any appreciable difference, you'd need: open airbox lid k&n filter (BMC are better) Open can a lot of time and patience getting it all right Pre ride Poo - great weight saving! My little 600 was 53bhp at the rear wheel with all of the above - I say was - It blew up - now has a 750 engine, much better! Miss the 600's character though
Carb heaters do work too! though so does patience and a little choke blank them off. much tidier and LIGHTER
Use a thin paperclip.................(unwind it first)....... .......NB! it is only a basic balancing.......You will need to use a balance gauge once the engine is running........
Ok! but first, where do you live so I can adopt the bike.... No, seriously, tried a little choke and NO throttle? If so and it still isn't firing, I used some easy start misted over the air filter when I was having after fettle starting woes! after one hit of that, job done! Also, one I am guilty of in my old age, check the fuel tap is all the way open.. I often forget
Back off the throttle stop screw until the butterflies are the tiniest bit open.......... Make sure petrol has got through to the carbs, by 1) Is the pump running all the time and can you hear fuel circulating back into the tank? and 2) Open the float bowl drain cock and see if there is plenty of fuel running out. 3) Did you clean the tiny filter in the Tee-piece at the carbs?
Tried closing the butterflies. The pump is running all the time, getting loads of fuel through and cleaned that tiny filter. I am going to replace the spark plugs again and new leads as I have had it before where new plugs can be duds, the leads I cut the ends but I will replace this time.
Take the belt covers off, turn the engine over by hand and line up the red dots on the pulleys with the marks on the heads and crankcase............all three (six) should line up. When that's done, see how tight/slack the belts are............if anything much more than 6mm - 8mm Allen key will pass between the belt roller and the belt easily, then they are too slack......... Surely you have checked (or even changed) the belts on the bike with all the work you have done?
I* believe there is a good U Tube video about setting the triming and belts. Google Ducati belts and see what you find.
Just found out the spark plugs only spark once, both sparks but just the once even if you keep turning it over, any ideas?
I assume you have now checked the cam timing, plugs and leads, plus the HT and LT connections....... Therefore it seems you should now check the resistance of the ignition coils and the resistance of the ignition pick-ups; plus check the ignition timing.......... AL
