End Cans, Decats And Pipes And Some Strange Noises...

Discussion in 'Hypermotard' started by ryanmayne, Apr 28, 2014.

  1. Hi guys,
    2 questions,
    Firstly I'm looking at making my first mod to my 1100 hyper. And the exhaust system is going to be it, but on a budget. Ideally I'd like a full system but that's way too much at the mo.

    So I'm after some advice. What's the best way to go on a budget, I want to smooth out the fuelling and engine and get some more noise. Would you recommend an end can slip on (keeping the cat) or has anyone here ran standard cans with aftermarket Headers and decat?
    I've seen mivv headers for around £230 and arrows for £290. I thought eventually I could couple them with a can when one comes up second hand or get one custom made by one of the many UK fabricators.

    The second issue, every now and then, setting off as I slip the clutch there's a very strange grinding noise! At first I thought the plastic chain guard was scraping/catching as it was chewed up when I got the bike, but it seems to be coming from nearer the front sprocket. I've wondered if the front sprocket is badly worn and is skipping, but I'm not mechanically minded enough to really know what it could be, I can do basic work on the bike but I'm more monkey see monkey do. Anyone had this problem?

    Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated, cheers!
     
  2. There is no budget - a full system for a hyper is expensive....youre starting where I was at 8 months ago....it all really comes together once everything is in place....

    I get that short grinding noise as well... I think its just where the clutch plates are starting to grip....unless someone else can put me right...

    The fueling is best left til last - any dyno work carried out will be a waste of time once you start changing stuff.
     
  3. Well that's a relief with the noise then, it has had me worried once or twice thinking I'd bought a duff bike.
    Would you recommend header pipes or slip on as a starting point?
     
  4. depends..... mine already came with a Termi end can....I bought a decat on ebay from a Chinese supplier. I thought id take the punt as it was half the price of the cheapest decat I could see. I was pleasantly surprised, well made, welds were really good quality, everything matched up mm sharp. One of these.

    Ducati Hypermotard 1100 Catalytic Converter Cat Eliminator Mid decat Y Pipe CA10 | eBay

    You could "gut" your end can which involves spiltting it apart and cutting out sections inside...one of the lads on the US site I think also cut his down as well so it was level with the rear light. I think it looked brilliant. Also, so I hear gutted pipes sound and go like performance end cans....so that's an option...
     
  5. Not sure where that fits (is it under the seat or just exiting on the right hand side by your foot)?
     
  6. The other thing to do (if you want to is knock the flapper valve out) - I did post how I did it sometime back...
     
  7. I'll have a look at that post! The a16 should go under the seat, but I would need to check the mounts for it, I think its one of those one size fits all jobbies.
     
  8. You'd need 2 then I guess....if that is the case then id look for a second hand tail section...it seems like a very generic ad - "this fits a ducati" not telling which one though....

    Ive found sc project cans are very well priced compared to others out there....oh - I also drilled out the top of the air box....another mod (easy if you want to do it) but then I would say once you've decided on a exhaust configuration and done the airbox mod then definitely get it dyno'd...

    Depending on who you go to and how good they are will depend on how it runs....getting it dyno'd in my opinion was the best thing every - like riding a different bike home...all fueling issues gone at the bottom end....beefier midrange and 5bhp throughout the range increase...
     
  9. Yeah that's one of my concerns but it does look like a right piece of kit. Was thinking of just getting one as I fancy a single can.

    Think I might try drilling the airbox over the bank holiday. The flapper idea is tempting, and I'm guessing its fairly straight forward too. Looks like I've some decisions to make!
     
  10. Yarp - I would also consider doing the clutch master cylinder....as I say its all the little things that make the whole package better...

    Mines gone from a choppy wristaching machine into a smooth easy to drive commuter that you can if you choose to go bonkers on...

    Yeah - theres some debate on whether the flapper valve makes a performance difference but in my opinion the less in the way of the exhaust gases the better....for the cost of a drill id say its worth it....
     
  11. Aye clutch cylinder is on the agenda as is the open clutch mod, anything that stops the girlfriend nutting me when 2 up. But my first priority is noise!
     
  12. Yeah - more of it! - throw some pics up as you go through it....pics are always nice...
     
  13. Will do! And thanks for the advice!
     
  14. Did you notice any power differences or just noise? How easy was it to do, I have a friend who's pretty handy with mechanicy type stuff.
     
  15. feels like much more power and lovely deep sound. looks spot on the way it should have looked from factory I think. I thought about getting the A16 cans or some small racefit but came across a spare set of standard cans and had my mate sort them for me.

    He had a nightmare sorting them. Bandsaw blade kept bogging down on fibre between double skin exhaust wall. he had to try a four different tig rods to get a match for the steel. the paint kept reacting so the pipes had to be rubbed back bare. They then had 7 thin coats of baked on heat resistant paint. He managed to do a fantastic job in the end but they were hard work (he is a fantastic welder and a perfectionist).

    I don't think i'd change them for any other pipes on the market.
     
  16. Isaac - just to ask - what did he do internally to the pipe? ive got a spare stock set and it would be nice to do the same to mine for the hell of it...
     
  17. Well basically just cut out the chunk you can see on the left IMG_6830.jpg

    This then removes one of the plates and leaves one in place (Can't really see it in the shadow of the piece on the right). My thinking was that it's kind of straight through now (2 holes through plate), but has some restriction in place. Does that make sense? kind of does to me my head works in strange ways.

    He cut out exactly 2" (49mm and 1mm for the thickness of the blade)

    I wanted to leave the outlet hole standard it really is loud enough but i can still start it outside the house at 06:30 (I don't let it warm up though at that time though just fire and gently go).

    My bike passed the MOT last week with these cans, decat and my custom LED indicators on.

    I've uploaded a PDF which may help. (the picure on it isn't the place he cut mine just used so I could show my mate internals)

    If you're off to the TT I maybe able to meet up and show you
     

    Attached Files:

  18. yup - ill be going on the RSV to the TT. From memory we're going late saturday night (11pm i think it sets off) so Sunday to Thursday afternoon (i think 1pm sailing) it'd be nice to meet up.

    Thanks for that....ill pay the fabricator who did the tail tidy a visit....the only reason i wouldnt cut it all apart myself is as youve said a ban saw would be the cleanest and level'est approach...
     
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