I may well end up in the same boat, but I know what I'm looking for. I'm not worried if I destroy the first clocks, I just don't want to do it to the 2nd set. May be the fix will be a 28mm hole in exactly the right place...clear up the corrosion, coat the board, then a rubber bung. Wouldn't that be a nicer fix? Your cheapest alternative (if out of warranty) is £500+VAT for the parts, remove and fit yourself. Then one hour of your local Ducati dealer matching your clocks to the bikes BBS.
I have this issue, left indicator light comes on faintly with the neutral, fuel warning or ABS light. Bike is going in to Ducati week after next to have them swapped for a new set. They confirmed within seconds that it's common and they'd change them over.
Good call getting them swapped over. Don't forget to ask them to copy over the mileage (if possible) as this saves any arguments when selling. Further check that your heated grips and DES suspension all works correctly before you take the bike away from the workshop. They should also reset the clock so it shows the correct time, set °C for temperature, MPH and MPG units for you.
I'd be interested to know if they can copy the mileage over, the guy who booked it in said it wasn't possible to prevent anyone being able to tamper the odometer. Makes sense I guess but clearly they said they'd certify the mileage before swapping it so any buyer could call them to confirm.
↑ I believe the mileage can only be transferred on 2013 and newer bikes. Well as the man in the orthopaedic shoes said..."I stand corrected".
OK - I've now got the donor clocks. As the seller already mentioned he's tried to open them up. The damage is in-line with what I would have done, so no losses there. I don't know if these have the display problem or not? I can confirm that the two little triangular nut like things are vent holes designed to prevent the whole speedo/clock pressurizing. Behind the drip shield (what you see) is a semi-permeable white membrane (looks like a spiders tight web, like where the eggs/babies are), that allows gas to pass through. Putting a drop of water on it shows that its hydrophobic. I've managed to remove the whole perimeter of the rear of the speedo and can confirm that it is sealed with a black rubber type substance (silicon*). IT IS NOT POTTED. The back is clipped on with tabs with rectangular holes and the matching tabs in the front casing. It is unlikely you could get this apart even without the silicon*. The rear case has a double raised lip with a single raised lip in the front case that fits between these. The methodology is that the silicon is applied around the rear connector and then the "Mother pcb" with this connector is pushed through the hole in the rear casing. More silicon* is then applied in the double lip. After a power (red/black) two pin mini-molex connector and two ribbon type removable connections are made to the display pcb (more to follow on this). The whole lot is then just pushed together. Note this speedo does not have silicon* compound at the back of the only connector, unlike others I've seen pictured. This appears to be your standard multi-pin connector. Very good quality so far. PCBs are gold plated fibreglass with varying sized pads / tracks and at least 4 layers. All ultra small resistors and capacitors, quad packs etc on both sides. At least eight electrolytic capacitors. The largest of which have additional glue across the pads and case. I've seen modifications like this before following test work in the UL labs in Chicago, following drop and vibration testing. Larger components can leave the board as they are only held with solder. The easiest post design modification is to glue them to the board. This is about the only human interaction I can find in the manufacture of the board. The components are all machine placed and soldered (probably infra-red reflow). I was wondering if it was glued and waved, but I cannot see any glue. IF the case can be taken apart (dissolve the silicon*) then this board could easily be changed. The display board is fitted from the front, which means the glass/plastic at the front would need to be removed to access the screws and circuit boards...my next project. So far the weakness could be the ribbon connector to the front board. One looks like it drives the LED indications and the other is the two displays. Another is that the pcbs are not protected in anyway against moisture. If moisture gets into the case the components and very close tracks could easily corrode making leakage paths for the signals to cross. I'm very concerned that the multi-pin connector has been exposed to too much heat during manufacture. Each pin is clearly showing carbonisation at the base of the pin. This means the plastic can easily leach moisture through to the back of the connector. There is just a mm or so before the pcb and this make as perfect trap for pin to pin corrosion. This may explain why other pictures of this connector show a silicon or potting compound at the back of the pin side of the connector. Effectively covering up the damage and preventing moisture from entering via this route. More to follow with pictures. * Substance will be identified with a suitable solvent.
Well done ACT. Certainly sounds like its fairly well made, but surprised they didnt conformal coat the boards. I would also be interested in seeing any pics. Would be interesting to hear what cpu and memory it has fitted too. thinking in terms of mileage correction when clocks changed for earlier bikes.
Interesting. Not even a write protected EEPROM. What is the CPU, h8 based ? I wonder if the CPU has internal flash for data as well s program, or whether this is the only nv data memory...
There's a draft over my head! Keep it up clever people, I'm sure it's only a matter of time before my clocks start playing up!
Err....Ummm...sorry...sort of got distracted by something....New bike.... No.....Getting Married :Shifty:.......nope...New bike.:Happy:
