1200 Moving From A 2010 To Twin Spark..thoughts?

Mind those bigger panniers, filtering with std panniers is hard enough but at least the bars are just as wide

 

I agree those big panniers look huge!! Not for me

I have a 2010 Ohlins equipped S Sport single spark and my friend has a 2013 twin spark Sky hook and we both agree the ohlins is better, the skyhook always feels firm and harsh. The twin spark engine however is a good improvement over the 2010, I have had mine CJS remapped and its great, but before the remap it was very rough on the lower rev range. The twin spark feels smooth trough out the rev range in standard trim

 

Ohlins cant cope the same as the skyhook surely, technically its set up for averages where the skyhook adapts on the fly

I have not ridden one, you're welcome to have a swap sometime you and me are similar stature, but I find the faster you go, the better the suspension works. And the parameters seems to be set pretty clear, eg the urban wallows a lot when you up the pace and runs wide, doesn't like quick turns but the touring irons it all put and loves it.

Having watched how Pete's dives under braking, as a straw poll of one, I'd say its way better!!

 

Seriously tho, he hits the brakes and headbuts the front tyre...and I'm a bit heavy at the mo so yep about tue same at 18 1/2

 

You could just go and test ride a new one

 

Slight hyperbole Bradders, but you're right; my Ohlins forks do dive rather more than I would like, I must say. That's with maximum preload on standard springs, Sport mode, 14 stone rider. If the dive was better controlled, I would be able to brake a bit later I think. On the other hand they are really great on rough bumpy roads.

 

I moved from a 2010 to 2013 1200S Touring (Ohlins to Skyhook).

As far as spec of new bikes goes; the GT also gets the liners for the cases ("internal soft bags")

As for differences:

• The twin spark engine is a lot smoother at lower revs, better than the 2010 with Fat Ducs. I stayed with the standard exhaust on both bikes. I considered a remap on 2010 but not on the 2013; probably not worth it unless you change the exhaust. The fuel consumption is a lot less on the new engine, by least 5 mpg, and therefore the range is a lot better. I think the engine braking is a less on the 2013 bike, maybe because of the secondary air-injection system into the exhaust. I didn't notice the increase in torque.
• The suspension is different; the Skyhook rear shock is definitely better for two up/fully loaded touring whereas the standard Ohlins spring is too soft. You notice the reduced dive and squat on the Skyhook, again a lot better for two up riding. I don't find the Skyhook as compliant as the Ohlins, not as smooth a ride however the Skyhook seems to get better the faster you ride whereas the Ohlins could get a lose in comparison. Skyhook is different, though not necessarily better.
• The screen is better, a lot less buffeting. I struggled with the 2010 screen trying various alternatives, none being as good as the standard 4 hole screen. I recently brought a PP style carbon screen, from Conquest Carbon, to play with for the summer - nice for a short blat when it's hot and dry but you have to clean your visor a lot more Also no head buffeting but the normal upper body buffeting you get on a naked bike.
• The LED main beam is good, makes the high beam seem poor in comparison even with better bulbs. I did fit the GT aux lights which I think help being seen - by those that look
• I couldn't get on with the 2013 seat. I had no issues with the 2010 seat, all day comfortable, but the 2013 seat was a problem after only 50 miles. The length and shape is different plus the foam is a lot harder. I had to use an AirHawk before I finally sprung for a Sargent seat which is a very different shape, bucket like with a edge but comfortable.
• The rear brake works on the 2013 bike a lot better than I ever got it working on the 2010 bike.
• The Skyhook accelerometer on the swing arm makes removal of the rear "mudflap"/crude catcher even more of pain when adjusting the chain.

I didn't consider the GT as I transferred the top case and already had the liners. I definitely didn't want the larger pannier lids and at the time I was looking it was only available in grey.

I traded "up" as I didn't want to run without a warranty. I did 16k miles in two and half years on the 2010 bike, only let me down twice - second day of ownership had the Hands Free error and the lock wouldn't disengage, then on tour in Spain the battery went flat and had to use the "free" European recovery to get a jump start. I had the usual "recalls" plus a new suspension ECU and all cams/followers changed at the 15k service (faults found by the dealer). Coming up to 10k miles on the 2013 bike - no problems just the usual niggles - marks on the forks from rubbing cables/hoses, main stand clanks into the cat, poor finish on the fasteners, rusting chain etc.

Am I happy, yes as I got a new Multistrada 1200S with another 3 years warranty. I'm sure the differences between the 2010 to 2013 versions are minor compared with those if I'd have changed to a different make/model. There is still the option of getting a late registered, low mileage Ohlins model and transferring the goodies you've added - al la John W (don't think you'd get an unused one though).

 

I went from a 2010 Touring to the 2013 Touring - Ohlins to Skyhook - really liked the Ohlins for the handling and the feedback they gave. It took me about 2 months to get used to the Skyhook System and I wouldn't go back to Ohlins now. At first with Skyhook I found myself going into corners quicker as it smoothed out the ride and it still handled the corners but there is not so much feedback. I am now used to Skyhook and others are right it will react to the riding style and even in touring mode if you push on it will tighten up but will wallow a little in fast corners. No problem switch to sport and all is well again with no wallow. It took me a while but I do trust the system now and it is very good indeed, there still isn't the feedback that the Ohlins gave but it handles everything that I have thrown at it with ease.

Also get the extra LED Driving lights fitted to an Touring S model, most of the time cars will move over (except on the M25!). In addition on my Touring S I have the Gel seat and Top Box - don't like the crash bars but have R&G Aero bungs.
Would a GT have been cheaper - no idea - you need to do the maths.

Hope that helps

 

Or better still don't brake. Works for me

 

Firm and harsh ?? I just leave mine in touring and find it perfect for longer trips 100 + miles and blasting round the Norfolk lanes, sport is firm I'll agree , I weigh 17 stone if that makes a difference ? when I bought it I did consider putting it to rider plus luggage but haven't needed to, as the skyhook is infinitely adjustable surely its just getting it set up right ?

 

What he said.... The skyhook version has a progressive rear spring, hence it's ability to cope with solo and two up riding. IIRC it is rated 75-125nm... The Öhlins standard is 75nm, which for me was way too soft (12.5 stone at the time) so I updated to the 100nm spring. Much better.

The Skyhook bike is better all round I found. Not massive differences, but enough incremental improvements to make it worthwhile.

That said, baby and no garage forces sale... See the classifieds.

But do put the LED side spot lights on (as per the GT)...make a massive difference, and people move right out of your way. Nice.

 

[QUOTE="David D, post: 417549, member: 23158"

But do put the LED side spot lights on (as per the GT)...make a massive difference, and people move right out of your way. Nice.[/QUOTE]

Looks proper poncy tho, like a Ewan wannabee, guess if you ride at night a huge amount or go offroad...

 

Aye they are proper poncy, but at night and in traffic they are great...

 

You're right they do look proper poncy, and you get some GS riders giving you a nod - not sure if it's by mistake most of the time

 

I have done 2500 miles on my 2014 1200s skyhook and it was harsh in sport mode, believe it or not I added about 5 turns of front pre load and this smoothed things out. It now handles very well for a non sport bike, when you want to take it a bit easier you can select either touring or urban modes. Both of these I have set up with my own preferences to ensure a smooth and comfortable ride in most conditions. The front end reacts well over poor services, something the earlier one wasn't so good at. I have changed the pipe and had a tune which really brings it alive. I can thoroughly recommend the LED headlights as they are superb at night and letting others see you coming. Without the cat etc it also feels far more nimble. No issues as yet. Fuel economy is better and the engine runs very cool at normal speeds (60 to 70c depending on air temp) I concur that when pressing on you get very little squat and it hooks up well. I am surprised the twin spark lump has gone back to traditional coils away from the plug top units on the 2010 model. I am very happy with mine at the moment. Would like to see cruise control, led high beam and a fully active ride as well as the new chain driven cam engine on the next model! I am sure the wish list will grow!

 

Just thought of another couple of subtle differences between the 2010-2012 and 2013/14 models:

• ABS - 2013/2014 model introduced multi-level ABS (Bosch 9ME ABS)
• DTC - 2013/2014 model introduced smoother intervention of the traction control using ignition delay as a first step

Not explored either of these features to their limits

There were also new wheels, as well as the new screen adjusting mechanism. The badges also changed from transfers to stickon - not as nice in my opinion but I'm sure it reduced manufacturing costs. They also put some heat shielding foil behind the exhaust cover - needless to say it still goes that lovely shade of mauve after a few thousand miles :-(

I'm sure I wake up in the middle of the night remembering something else