1200 Rear Disc / Pad Replacement

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Chazaxl, Sep 2, 2014.

  1. So, I tried to adjust my rear brakes before a EU bike tour and somehow managed to wear out the pads - looks like I adjusted the rear plunger too tight and when the pedal was 'pumped' when riding, it started to drag the pads. The pads look like they are down to the metal and signs of some damage on the disc now.

    Ive seen recommendations for sintered pads but I have no idea what make etc. Can anyone give me a link to a recommended pad, ideally something better than OEM?

    I will also try and bleed the brakes. Currently when the pedal is pumped the fluid level goes up and down (not sure if this is correct) and is already low - so the system can do with some TLC.

    I assume to change the disc, rear wheel needs to come off. Argh. Anyone replaced discs, costs etc?

    Thanks
     
  2. guys at my local bike garage changed my rear pads for fast road pads, as i was concerned when the 1st MOT came around for it, they felt much better than std ones, not sure which ones they fitted, but was not that expensive
     
  3. Thanks - would be good to know what pads were used, this is all I really need for the most of it.
     
  4. Ferodo FDB2074P or S (Sintered).
     
  5. Thanks. Is one of them better than the other? What exactly does 'sintered' mean?
     
  6. some form of soft metal in the mix when constructing the braking material, copper brass maybe. increases longevity
     
  7. Copper n brass...hence the colour...
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  8. They heat up quicker, transfer heat away (more conductive) and eat disks faster....:Kiss::Jawdrop:
     
  9. Sintered are kinder to SS over Iron, however, they won't eat them like a beast if primarily road riding. That said, I would not use Sintered on the front. Only rear.
    I run them on the rear with the big caliper & BrakeTech Iron rotor.

    I've commented about my rear brakes performance before, so no need to rub it in any further.
     
  10. Thanks, have ordered some EBC sintered pads and new fluid. Hopefully that will at least get the brake operational - dont need much more.
     
  11. To replace the rear disc you need to:
    - remove silencer if you need to in order to get the wheel off (depends on silencer),
    - slacken the big central nut on the left side (do this before you remove the wheel, its easier),
    - remove the rear wheel,
    - unbolt the caliper from its mounting bracket,
    - remove the big nut on the left side and withdraw the spindle, complete with disc. Note that the sprocket carrier / drive is on splines, and will drop down so be prepared for it,
    - remove the 4 bolts that hold the disc on and act as drive pegs for the wheel too,
    - unbolt the abs sensor ring from the disc.

    Reverse the above to put it back together ;)

    Tools needed are rear wheel socket, plus allen keys to undo the disc bolts, and caliper bolts.
    Sounds more complicated than it is, and takes about an hour from start to finish.

    I would recommend a brembo serie oro (gold) rear disc. Still stainless but less chrome content than the standard one, so higher friction coefficient.

    Hope that helps.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  12. Thanks all.
     
  13. All done, fairly easy. Old pads were down to metal. New pads are so much better. Getting ABS to kick in fairly easily without them even fully bedded in. Changed fluid same time.
     
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