used bike on saturday placed on trickle charge went to start nothing happened except lots of clicking kept playing with the fob got it to start turned ignition off then nothing except clicking noise no lights or dash lights any ideas
Kev, if you have problems with the alarm I can pm you instructions (pin out info) on how to bypass it. First thing to do is to eliminate the obvious (usual) Ducati faults. Also give the alarm box a good sniff, when they go wrong you can usually smell it (typical acrid burnt out electrics smell).
thanks for the info if pos could I have the pin out info hopefully problem was a duff battery cheers Kevin
I had the same alarm and the same issue. Used a battery booster to start the bike and the alarm went up in smoke so just cut it off.
Kev, Is it a 357t or a 357t V2? Also if the battery is duff and replaced do you still need the pin out info. Danny, that's one reason why should not use a battery booster on the bike, you are lucky it was n't the ecu. Also a Meta, when installed correctly, needs to be removed then the wiring of the bike restored (or the pin out diagram used to bypass the alarm) otherwise 3-4 of the circuits of the bike will not work.
it is a M367T V2 still not sure if it is the alarm or may be the starter motor as bridged the starter still wouldn't fire up the pin out info would be a help as it may stop me using the sledge hammer any ideas how to get the starter out chhers Kevin
Kev, if you have nothing on the dash it is more likely something other than the alarm. Did you check your battery voltage? Also the main fuse and main ignition relay should be checked. The pin out for the alarm works by cutting wires in the alarm loom and is really needed if you are sure you have a dodgy alarm. If you post up details of the symtoms, what you have checked, tried or bypassed then I may be able to assist.
Changed battery checked fuses tried bridging the starter slow turning have dash lights if u hit the starter button the dash read out flashes also happens if u turn the lights on. But not if you turn the indicators on. Cleaned leads to battery and solinod
Kev, you need to take a lead directly from the battery to the main contact on the starter to check the starter motor out. You really need to see what your battery voltage is and work through the problem logically with confirmed checks, also I recommend checking the main ignition relay. I will pm you the pin out diagram but would advise you not to use it until you have worked through the most likely bike issues first.
Denzil do you have any info / instruction on how to replace the Sparga clutch as this seems to be the problem cheers kevin
Had one of these on my SS from new. They are very sensitive to voltage. Indicators invariably flashed four times not two on alarming the system. Even a damp ride would have the alarm unit ticking away like a good'un when the ignition was turned off. In the end it gave up the ghost so I removed it completely. With about 20 black cables coming out of the box you would think it is a very sophisticated system. Half of these went nowhere and were cut short. Two interupted the supply to the solenoid. Two did likewise to the ingnition. Two went to the reed switch under the seat and all the remainig wires that were in use were to do with flashing the indicators. So apart from the motion sensor in the unit itself all pretty basic. Amongst all the miles of black insulating tape I removed I found that there is a spade type fuse as part of the system. Didn't even know it existed before I stripped it all off! and no this was not the problem as the alarm unit just kept blowing the fuse. If I ever spend that sort of money again I would go for a tracking device that will text my mobile.
Billy, not sure who fitted your alarm but I would not go back to them for any bike electrical work in the future as it looks to me like they did not know what they were doing. For a proper install about 16 wires should be used, each one does the following 2 are negative connections 2 go to each of the indicator circuits (1 for each side) 1 goes to an optional siren or the horn 1 is an antennae for the remote (not connected to anything) 1 is the alarm positive supply 2 are the starter solenoid immobilizers (load and supply) 2 are for the led supply 1 is for movement sensor adjustment 1 goes to the ignition switched supply 1 goes to a switch of your choice which can be a seat switch 1 can be wired to a side stand switch 2 go to an ecu supply Four flashes are usually an indication of a problem with the alarm power supply, which I suggest was most likely the alarm battery was not getting charged as the alarm was not connected correctly (fuse blown?). In the circumstances I am surprised your alarm worked at all. In terms of voltage sensitivity the alarm works between 10v and 15v, it draws hardly any power when correctly functioning (about 0.02A fully armed, 0.01A passively armed and virtually nil power in sleep mode) Whilst I am not a fan of bike alarms (some of them really are not that good) and the Meta seems to have a life expectancy, I have diagnosed and repaired a few problems that were related to them and most of those problems were due to poor installation. Most of the problems attributed to the alarm unit are down to something else on the bike. Believe it or not the Meta ones are amongst the best ones available.
well, using the search function I found this thread. My Meta 357 (I think V2) has started to play up on the garage queen. gone through the basic system stuff like bike battery, fuses, connections. last night checked the bike would turn over (as I had a situation a few weeks back where the immobiliser stayed in and alarm would not disarm so bike would not even turn over). Bike turned over with kill switch off, so I thought all was fine. got kitted up this morning, filled the bag with the essentials and went to wheel her out of the garage. Hit the keyfob and nothing, LED wasn't flashing either. Normal dash lights were on. disconnected the bike battery, left it for a minute or so, reconnected (heard lots of clicking in the alarm unit) then pressed the fob and got a single beep, but bike won't turn over. flicked the kill switch and the alarm beeped, pressed the fob and the alram beeped (single beep each time). Pressed the started switch and the alarm intermittenly clicked and the starter followed it with intermittent attempts to turn the bike over. Having read the above, I guess the internal battery is the likely culprit in the Meta, but other sources say the internal battery is potted in for weather protection so isn't an easy swap out. options are; 1. new internal battery with potentially lots of faff getting one out and one in 2. new meta unit to plug in but at around £125 to £175 3. rip out the meta and reinstate the wiring which would be about 4-5 hours of effort 4. pin short out method per various internet sources anybody any experience in doing any of the above? pitfalls or similar. Cheers, Pete
seems to be the consensus @Exige (from what I have read on here and other forums). trying to get it out of the garage and stored elsewhere while I get some building work done, so will go with the pin out method for now, then look to take the alarm out completely while it is stored elsewhere over the winter. cheers, Pete
I had the Meta357 and it lasted about 3 years before going wrong. It's still fitted, just bypassed. Useless things. Here's the fitting instructions...
Last time I removed an alarm (from a GT1000) it took less time than the owner to make me a cuppa Luckily it was simply a case of reinstating the cut starter wire and removing the alarm wires. I spent about an hour taking the alarm off in the end, following each wire to see where it went, what it did and then removing it and making good the harness or putting cut wires back together. Luckily on this one it was only six wires: 12v, Gnd, Left indicator, Right indicator, Starter In, Starter Out. Then it went in the bin. Just be careful with your insurance though. If you leave it in place, it's still "fitted"...
