I have a 1098s with full termi, DP ecu and filter. When I start it I have to keep the revs at around 2k to prevent it stalling, same thing when I stop at lights, bike cuts out if I don't rev it. Doesn't really improve when I rev it. I have done a search but apparently the stalling issue some early 1098s suffered from was cured by a full exhaust system so I'm assuming as mine has one it is unrelated to that. Bike is 2007 and has had belts, plugs and oil 500 miles ago, 12000 on the clock. I like to do my own spannering where possible as I'm 2 hour drive from a dealer, any help appreciated
Does you have a secondary earth lead attached to the battery? Might improve engine running characteristics - it has done with my 999S!
The idle is controlled by a stepper motor controlled needle valve or Idle Control Valve. They can get gummed up. Flushing through the valve with carb cleaner can help. Unfortunately the ICV is mounted on the throttle bodies so it is a tank and airbox off jobbie to do it.
The stalling issues on the early 1098 was cured by cracking open the air bypass screws a little. Rear first by about half a turn. The full system is able to be set up. Reset TPS then balance and trim fuelling.
Well I just started the bike again. It ran fine for 5 minutes or so, voltage is 14.1v at idle, then I noticed the front light (only the front light, rear stays on) switching off for maybe 2 seconds and back on again and bike cut out. Tried to restart, took several attempts, only started by opening the throttle and wouldn't run properly below 4k rp, voltage dropped to a low of 10v while cranking attempting to start. Bike ran ok again for another couple of minutes but all the time the front light was turning off intermittently. I'm guessing my problem is electrical or maybe the light issue is a coincidence?? Thanks for the suggestions so far, anyone any other ideas?
Sounds like battery may be on its way out (or already trashed). I will repeat, have you got a secondary earth lead fitted to the battery?
Not that I am aware of, where do you run this lead to, the frame is it? The battery is on a tender at all times, do you reckon that is abnormal voltage I am reading?
The cranking voltage seems low to me, the idle voltage a tad low too but maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong. The standard secondary earth mod is to double-up the earth lead from the negative pole of the battery to wherever it is bolted into the frame. There are various kinds of secondary lead you can buy, from bodging up a lead yourself to buying some very posh leads from a chap called Exige here on this very forum (I have some leads from Exige, they are rather decent and just fitting the earth lead I got from him, on its own, transformed the starting on my 999S). Your battery sounds shagged to me. Even though it has been on a tender, batteries can still fail, after a couple of years or so. Some clever folks here can probably tell you how to confirm whether the battery is shot.
ok, today I found a guide on here to test the charging system on any bike, the volts are a consistent 14.1 - 14.4 when bike is idling and revved to 5000 rpm and over, this, according to the guide, means my charging system is healthy, this was measured with a multimeter off the battery ( which was fairly consistent with dash readout by the way). So what I did was: 1.cleaned positive and negative terminals to battery 2. Ran a separate earth lead to a engine bolt 3. Separated and cleaned both connectors to Regulator / Rectifier and sprayed with contact cleaner. I did notice the yellow cables were quite hot to the touch but I'm assuming that's normal unfortunately none of this made a difference, fired it up and it ran fine for a couple of minutes until the lights turned off again and seconds later the engine stalled. While the lights flickered it didn't appear to have any effect on the voltage reading which stayed at 14.1. Looks lime it might be a different connection that is corroded or loose
Just my two peneth and by no means am i as qualified as some of the posters here but, my bike was similar after standing for several months over winter. It would start but cut out if not revved. My Lucas battery was showing a full charge on the optimate and was only 10 months or so old. I bought a new battery and it cured the issue straight away. For the sake of £40 or so, I would change the battery especially if its an old one. It may not cure it but it worked for me. Hope you sort it.
Thanks for your suggestion, I swapped batteries from my track bike and unfortunately it is still the same
I havent since I've owned the bike (12 months) but I will now, where is it located do you know as I have the tank off and don't see an inline filter
