I have just purchased an old multistrada s touring, frustratingly I have only managed 2 rides on it so far, one on the way home and a short run out the other weekend. Both rides were pi£$ing it down but I enjoyed every mile . I am convinced when I get chance to use the bike more I will enjoy every mile in its standard form but have a niggling interest in this ecu from ohlins . If it is indeed a revelation for this bike I might as well purchase the unit and enjoy the bike to its full potential ( solo riding only ) from day one so to speak. I also have a niggling feeling it may be of no benefit to a high miles bike like mine ( 27k) and would be interest to no if at 27k miles the suspension is past its best ? Any way, love the bike and would be interested in pros and cons to this unit if there is indeed any cons apart from wasting money:flushed:
At 27k miles your suspension should have been serviced anyway. I know of only 1 rear suspension failure after the Ohlins SCU was fitted and that was the pre load adjuster not the compression or rebound. Best £250 I have spent on my Multistrada. Andy
Purchased one of these last year before a 3k mile trip and have to say depending on your riding, the difference can be night and day although i have to say theres not a massive difference while slow riding/commuting. There is huge improvement in regards to squatting under hard acceleration and diving under hard breaking, and also heaps of improvement while 2 up or with full luggage. Well worth the money imo Hope this helps
Thanks guys that's 2 positives lol , would I be correct in saying if the new unit is in active mode it would make no difference to what mode you select regarding suspension settings? I am probably wrong but lets say I have it on sport and then go off road the suspension will actively alter its settings to compensate for the road conditions. Would this also be relevant for say 2 up riding with luggage? Or are the mode settings still relivant and if so what does it change if the new unit is semi active ?
You manually set the pre load on the front forks, you select a value in the SCU for the pre load on the rear shock absorber, finally you set all the compression and rebound settings in all 4 modes to 1. That will give you what you describe. If you only set 1 mode compression and rebound to 1 the other modes stay as standard. Hope that helps. Andy
Thanks Andy , so the rear pre load is not altering threw out the 4 modes when set in active ( value 1) only the comp and rebound ? Sorry for being dumb lol , I understand the front preload is manual .
Moderately worth doing, depending on how experienced you are in setting up suspension and how often you ride with luggage/pillion - the suspension adapts over a wider range of conditions as you ride: rambling and review here: Analogue vs Digital, Part 3: Rise of The Mechatronics | Ducati Diary
It is my understanding that you set the rear shock pre load in each mode. I just set it to the same value as I'm usually a solo rider and as a fat bastard, it's set to 1 off maximum. Andy
well worth the money , there are instructions in the box on how to set it up , follow them , I think I may still have the box and instructions , will look later. unfortunately the box has a standard ohlins in ecu in it though
I have the upgrade box with instructions too although there is a YouTube video that shows it, it's on this forum somewhere. I fit mine on the way home from buying it. Stopped at a pub to meet the missus on the way home and then absolutely ragged the bike home from there. It felt superb the harder I pushed it. Just sat in 3rd down some very twisty lanes and it was one of my best rides. Got mine on eBay (turned out to be a fellow forum member). Setting everything to 1 takes an absolute age. Probably 20mins with a fast thumb. It'll be sore by the time you're done.
I have decided to get used to the bike and enjoy it as it is, I think with the limited riding time I will get over the next few months and the fact I don't really no the bike yet it is probably the best thing to do . Incidently after a run out today it has become clear my fuel gauge is not working after a fill up and a 60 mile run ( it still reads empty) it would seem my money would be better spent else where :-( . How much for the fuel sender repair guys lol.
£67 and it is a known weakness. Big job but definitely DIY. All the side panels and plastic trim around the speedo need to come off to get at the tank. The fuse block is held to the tank by 2 bolts that need to be undone before the tank can be released. Andy
Andy, I've just had mine replaced for the second time and although it's still working fine I've no confidence it will continue to do so. So, i'm interested in a possible DIY replacement but a little nervous about undertaking what sounds like a complicated job. Is there an illustrated step by step guide published anywhere do you know?
I did it the hard way when I fitted LED indicator wing mirrors because the connectors are buried in the loom under the tank. I did have a copy of a link to a workshop manual that was posted by someone on here but it doesn't work now. Happy to do a quick aide memoire if it would help. Andy
Sounds good to me Andy, I don't even no what part to buy lol. Just out of interest martyn how much did the dealer charge to do the job?
He didn't. The first was replaced as a good will gesture even though it was just outside warranty. I timed it to coincide with the 15k service when they have the bike in bits anyway, so there was no extra labour charge. The second time was again done for free as it had failed within 12 months. My dealer has been really good about stuff like this.
I have a spare unused boxed Ohlins SCU, as I bought one in error to go on a recent purchased bike that already had one, but was not set up to work. These are £280 delivered from FT suspension. Yours for £230. PS it works, and allows you to keep personal or standard settings too for comparison
The modes still work, but ONLY the engine modes. The SCU has a set of stiffer start point dampening settings for 150 full power mode (sport), than for 150 low mode (touring). It means that the enduro and urban modes are the same and softer than touring and sport. So you cant have 100 hp and sport suspension algorithm at the same time.
