Hi all, Recently began returning my 750 cagiva elefant (has a wet clutch 750ss engine). All working well except the clutch. Works at first but when warm slips to the extent that with clutch fully out will not pull away. I have changed the levers some time ago but that didn't cause problems. I may have used semi synthetic oil but have read that shouldn't cause problems. Anyone know best place to purchase clutch cover seals? I've had similar problems with dry clutch and was able to swap a couple of steels and friction plates. Is the same true of wet clutch Ducati's?
I'm sure I've read that semi and fully synthetic do cause those problems... but it was a long time ago so can't quote my source, but I'm of the impression that it's a well known cause Levers and cable travel etc can be discounted as it works till warm, so what's changing with heat? Viscosity would be my guess - while the oil's thick there's some grip, but as it get thin, slippage...
Yes, I'm thinking oil too as it worked, has stood for a year and goes off when warm. Would plates be knackered or would an oil change in isolation work?
It's a grey area, and you are both right to some extent. Ducati themselves recommend synthetic oil with wet clutches of course and on the whole it works fine but there are exceptions and it's often to do with long-term standing as the oil gets more of a chance to saturate the plates than when in constant use. There are many threads on many forums about this, can only add my first hand experience of definite clutch slip due to using synthetic oil in the past. The best you can do is use the Ducati approved oil or if you are going to use other brands make sure they are 'motorcycle only' and don't contain friction modifiers that are present in synthetic oil specified for car use. You only need to replace the friction plates Matt, the steel plates hopefully will be fine.
Cheers Chris, I'll track down a new set of friction plates & change the oil (which I was going to do anyhow).
Possibly unrelated but the clutch on Hannah's Speed Triple has been doing this (I ride it most) and its the clutch cable starting to fray and getting caught inside the liner, and is grippy enough to hold the clutch open meaning no drive. Ordered a new cable from Triumph in late September but none in UK (odd as bike made here...) and just been told delivery date put back to early November
If the oil is penetrating the clutch plates then it will do that whatever kind of oil you might put in there. BMW also sy synthetic in the wet clutch F800 bikes, the wifes F800 did thousands of miles with no problems on synthetic oil.
Synthetic oil affects standing friction plates far more than non-synthetic - has happened to me on several bikes plus have talked face to face with Ducati owners who have had similar experiences including one who ended up with plates and oil exchanged under warranty on a Monster - and that's why I took the trouble to explain earlier.
It can be a number of things. Sometimes the baskets get worn on the fingers so the plates do not move as the should or the springs get weak over time or it can be a combination of everything being a little bit worn. If you have done any mileage with a slipping clutch you might find the steel plates are blued and warped slightly so that might be why it gets worse when hot.
Steve, I value your experience and appreciate your contributions. The forum would be poorer if you did not openly share your wisdom . Andy
On my wet clutch 750 SS, I used to reckon it was mayonnaise that caused such problems. If I made sure to get the oil good and hot on every journey and took the oil filler cap out after journeys to let steam out, it would cure it. Probably best to use motorcycle specific fully synthetic though, to avoid the aforementioned friction modifiers.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I think any sensitivities of the difference between semi and synthetic oils has been exaggerated by the fact the bikes been stood for over a year. If ever there was an argument for getting out and riding more frequently! I'll change the oil and friction plates and see how i get on.
I had this exact problem on my 600ss and it turned out to be the master cylinder. My understanding was that it wouldn't let fluid return to the reservoir and thus heated up and expanded leading to the clutch disengaging or slipping. New mastercylinder sorted everything
As Jimmer says. Try screwing in the stub on the lever that pushes the piston in the master cylinder. Especially as you say you changed the levers. Stub needs to be shorter if return valve isnt working. ps. They can be tight thread.
