So followed another thread on here and adjusted the lever as much as possible and it was almost perfect, my foot sliding forward can go straight but catches so need to move my foot about 5mm up. So I decided to take it further and get down lower by buying a new rear master brake cylinder and threading the rod / shortening it. I did this by putting two nuts on the thread to lock each other and then run through a 6M die. So a this resulted in the following: Took her and tested the brake and ensured the power was the same by stopping from 30mph just on using the back and still the same However bad news on the back brake light switch which now is permanent on as it catches I had to reduce down to literally a thread of safety on the bump stop to ensure it was on to give me this, which is still a little more than before but well off it's full potential: So next I need to find either a larger headed bump stop or a way to extend this one to operate the brake light switch effectluvky and safely. Watch this space!
THanks Big pre winter clean other week and all covered in AC50. Just looking at the parts diagram and looks like the switch is a formed within a bolt and has a locking nut, so may be able to move it up a little so will try next weekend.
I'm glad you said that - I had it at it's shortest and went out pushed as hard as I could and was shocked how little power it had; I thought being shorter the spring or length weren't getting high enough in. I went back, put the original and pushed as hard as I could and same thing! Very shocked how weak it is. I now know I can literally jump on it and it won't lock and doesn't stop too well.
My only guess would be that it's the engine braking that makes up for it and the front brakes match that. But I don't like having the engine braking high so I end up using the front brake a lot.
You could fit one of these,Panigale is m10x1. Hydraulic single Banjo Bolt Brake Pressure Light Switch M10 x 1.25mm for Honda | eBay
Wow! So this just goes in the top of the master cylinder then? M10x1.25 would be the size? I'm very interested now I don't want to bleeding my brakes and doing myself so look at how much someone's would do it for
Yes screws in the top of master cylinder and you need a m10x 1 but please check first, easy job to do, I will post up a pic when I get home.the whole job should only take half a hour.
Looks perfect and a proper job for this - thanks for this and the picture. I'm gonna call my local dealer and see what they'll charge to fit it - hopefully only charged a brake bleed. Are the wiring pins easy to connect up to the existing socket? @advikas I'm a big user of the rear brake but never realised how weak it is on the panigale until I did this and did the comparison. I thought my new setup did it but obviously not! Still going to continue on and get the bike perfectly setup for me to get comfortable and 100% happy.
I've always found rears a bit useless to be honest. I never ever use the rear on track as it just locks up. On the road I'll use it at junctions etc
Yes its just a 2 wire join up job,soldered and heatshrink,there are many ways to connect them up this is just my prefered method.
Perfect Will take a look at the connector and order the goodridge one (M10x11 is noted as Brembo master dormant) and see what my dealer will charge - don't fancy getting him brake fluid on any paint work! Will report back when done
