Hi. After changing the fluid in the rear brakes I cant seem to get a decent pedal without pumping it 3 or 4 times. The rear brake wasn't very good before but although there is no air coming out of the bleed tube I cant get rid of the air in the system. Any tips. cheers Gary.
Have you got a bleed nipple at the ABS unit? It's the highest point so is a good mod everyone used to do.
I haven't done the mod to the abs unit. I thought I would be able to bleed the brakes and get them back to the same poor standard but it seems I am not able to even do that. If I cant get a pedal I will have to consider the abs mod. cheers.
I had an awful time with my multi's brakes. Basically took to tying back the lever with Velcro after every ride. For the back brake, I cut a length of plastic pipe to jam the pedal down overnight. It was the only way I could have decent brakes (and that was with the ABS nipple mod). I took it to be my poor bleeding skills, but dropped my front fluid and renewed it on the KTM earlier and had it done in minutes (ABS model too).
I have also bled other bike brakes before and never had a problem like this. With the multi I lifted the bike up on a hydraulic lift and tipped the bike forward so that the rear caliper was about four inches above the rear brake pedal thinking that the air would make its way out naturally. This plan was flawed because as you have pointed out the fluid goes up to the abs unit first. I have heard people talking about a hydraulic pump that forces the fluid into the system but I don't know anything about them.
On mine after bleeding and changing the pads, I left it over night with the brake pedal firmly on by zip tie, at the same time I left the reservoir cap off with a bit of kitchen roll over the top to keep any damp out, you could probably do the same with a sock. Next morning the pedal was firm and usable. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on before using it
I will try the tie wrap trick as out of most of the posts on the forum that seems to be the most popular. cheers to both of you for the advice. Gary
Leaving the cap off the reservoir won't make any difference because when the pedal is held down the return passage to the reservoir is completely blocked off by the piston. You'd be better just leaving it on.
I have just persevered and kept on bleeding the brake line but I still have to pump the pedal a few times to get the brake anywhere near normal. I know it is still air in the system but I can't seem to get rid of it.
I have just persevered and kept on bleeding the brake line but I still have to pump the pedal a few times to get the brake anywhere near normal. I know it is still air in the system but I can't seem to get rid of it.
Take the rear caliper off and put it up on the pillion seat and bleed from there.m it's very quick and easy and you will get a working back brake. As mentioned if you fit bleed nipples on abs it can help .
Cheers cmyrers. I will try that. I was hoping for some magic trick that would save me from dismantling half of my bike but it seems not. AIRCON and EXIGE, you seem to be working together like characters in an episode of Game of Thrones. If you know the secret of eternal youth, can dispute Einsteinns theory of relativity, or show me an easier way to bleed my brakes, please share it with me and all the other fans out here. Ive had some great advice (keep it clean, its a family show.)off both of you before so don't shatter my kids illusion of you now and let me down. Hopefully yours Gary. P.S. Ive been at the Jamesons for two hours.
There is no magic but honestly it takes 10mins to take it off and put it on seat. I've used vacuum devices and nipples on the abs and nothing works like putting the calliper on the seat as it becomes highest point in circuit. Mine went from mot advisory to being solid it literally took 15mins . I avoided it for three weeks , there is no magic I tried it all , the way Ducati says do it works calliper on seat , good luck and try some springbank 15 for a great whisky
I didn't know Ducati recommended lifting the caliper up on to the seat. Seems daft to design something as good as a multi then use a method that would be better suited to a 1956 Ford Anglia to bleed the brakes, but if it works it works. Ill try anything once, so Springbank 15 it is then. When I have tried both suggestions I will reply. Cheers gary.
I need to dig out my notes. Replace fluid with something decent like rbf600. Bleed both back and front brake circuits at the abs unit. Turn rear caliper upside down and lift above rear master and bleed at both abs and caliper... you then get a half decent rear brake for about 2 to 3 months with daily riding. http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/indexf78c.html?fa=contentGeneric.qgntgwplktwyjcps&pageId=6220603
As it happens I am only a half decent rider so a half decent brake would be more than enough. On Wednesday when I am sober I will have another try with the new tips. In the meantime I will send the Landlady to aldi for a bottle of Springbank 15 to see if it helps. More suggestions for whisky are more than welcome. Cheers Gary
Hi. Back again with the rear brake saga. I fitted the bleed nipple to the ABS banjo and bled the rear line up to the ABS unit, lifted the rear caliper up to the rear seat, fixed it to a piece of timber and bled the line up to the caliper. The brake pedal was good. I thought I had cracked it then I realised that when I pressed the pedal very lightly it gradually crept downwards and went to its maximum travel. If I pressed the pedal more firmly it still crept downwards but not as quickly. It was as though the seals had gone in the master cylinder. Before I changed the brake fluid this didn't happen, though the rear brake was just the usual Multistrada poor brake. I have tried to source some new seals but according to the Ducati workshop manual the master cylinder is a sealed unit and not able to be repaired. Has anyone ever had this happen to them, or can they offer me an explanation. Cheers. Gary
