I know book says shell, but I have been reading up on it and seems the only reason they recommend this is because shell is a partner of Ducati.
I use Motul 300v on all the bikes now. I used to be a believer in just using anything half decent and changing it after every couple of trackdays but after feeling how watery the cheaper stuff becomes after only a couple days of hard use I moved to the (rather expensive) Motul 300v race oil. This stuff comes out after two or three hard track days and still feels exactly like it went in. I still change it after a couple of hard track days but I know some of the guys that race who leave it in for months and say that it still comes out in the same condition. Opie oils ( @oilman on here) is excellent by the way and I'd highly recommend paying for his Cornish pasties, they have gone out of their way on many occasions to get oil to me last minute before racing or trackdays. Opie Oils race oil link
From a warranty point of view too, I was told by an independent vehicle inspector that no warranty can be refused as long as the oil weight is within the temperature spec in the manual. That said, some oils are obviously better than others. On a long trip, I was running low and still refused to put the texaco garages cheap shite in my engine and went off hunting for better with my nose turned up.
Any good branded 100% synthetic oil (motul, shell, mobil1, castrol, silkolene, fuch and so on) that meets the factory specification should be fine unless you plan to run in the fast group or go racing. I cannot see the point in using top grade racing oil in a road bike. I yet failed to see and engine having more wear due to different oil brand.... Again if the oil comes out a little bit darker is not a problem, it means is collecting the dirt from the engine.
Yes 10:40 300V. Only had my R1 on track, can't remember what I put in that! 1098R has whatever Moto Rapido use.
