Restore Carbon Fibre Finish?

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by MaxW, Apr 19, 2017.

  1. Hi everyone.

    My first post on here so apologies if this has been answered already.

    I have a 2000 996SPS and the gloss finish of the carbon fibre front mudguard as well as the airbox is starting to look quite tired. It generally looks dull or greyish, and in places the lacquer (?) appears to have small pin-hole sized pock marks.

    Is it possible to get carbon fibre restored and if so does anyone know if there is someone in the Surrey/Hampshire area I could take it to?

    Thanks in advance,

    Max
     
  2. Have you tried something like tcut?I had a go with some cutting compound on mine,they deffo look better.
     
  3. If on budget try some good quality 2k clear lacquer. (Akzo Nobel Lesonal for example)
    400ml Aerosol Lesonal 2K Clearcoat

    Will obviusly require some light sanding with 800 wet prior application.
     
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  4. Buy some wet'n'dry papers from 800 grit to 4000 grit.
    Use PLENTY of water.
    Start with the 800 and finish with the 4000.
    Clean it well, the lacquer it.
    Regards the pin holes - it depends on whether they are in the lacquer or the manufacturing process (more likely). If it's in the lacquer then the papers above will sort it, if not then you have to fill them in with some black-coloured filler.
     
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  5. Micro-Mesh. We used to use it to fix Tomcat canopies. I use it when I build/refinish guitars. I love lacquer.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Don't get to over excited with the wet and dry, only a thin layer of lacquer and gel coat. No problem wet sanding, but too much and you will cut through to the carbon below.
     
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  7. Watch out for wax polish residue in the pinholes, which can prevent the lacquer from flowing into them.
    I would be inclined to give it a good scrub with a toothbrush and a solvent .. possibly meths .. to get rid of it.
    Beware of using water and lots of washing up liquid as I tried that on badly aged carbon and the whole thing went white.

    If you do get such problems, try rigorously brushing the first coat on, to force it into the pinholes.

    I've used U-Pol no 1 clear, uv resistant lacquer from a rattle can in the past, with excellent results.
    And whatever you do use, its probably worth giving it as long as a couple of weeks to go fully hard before polishing it.
     
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  8. Well thank you all for the informed replies - very helpful indeed. I think I'll sand back carefully with micromesh then take the parts to a pro paint shop.

    Thanks again everyone, and I'll post pics once done.

    Max
     
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  9. If your taking to a paint shop let them prep it, I work in a body shop and we won't touch other people's prepping as to we don't know what's been done /used etc we do start to finish then work is warrented and if goes tits up mid way it's not on your wallet to re paint it. If you get my drift
     
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