Real Rusty Chain

is it a 525? ive got a only used for a very brief time 94 link gold erv chain if that helps? you'd need to get a new soft link to join it.......HTH

 

If you're talking about the large tins that we used to melt on the cooker and soak the chain in, I don't think I'd advise putting an O ring chain in one of those. My mum used to love it when I cleaned and lubed my chain!!

I would think that today's chain lube is far more effective in every way. I've never used Scotoilers myself but I would have thought the combination of that and lube would have been sufficient. My bike lives in the garage but it does get damp in there. I always clean the chain with WD40, before lubing, and firmly believe that helps keeps corrosion at bay. Give it a try, it's fairly inexpensive.

 

I was advised not to use WD40 as I was told it can perish/ degrade the rings.

for lube I use the wurth stuff. Wax based so doesn't flick off everywhere and easy to apply.

 

I always use wd40.applied to both sides of the chain with a cloth,no rusting issues,but don't spray it everywhere so no issues with soaking in to rings just the face of the chain.

 

I was going to say that people have written on here before that WD40 is ALL they use, but abmatt2002 beat me to it! I spray it on liberally and then wipe vigourously with a rag to remove the muck. Then apply your favourite lube. I've done this for years and not damaged a chain yet.
I've used the Wurth dry lube, good stuff. Currently use Muc-Off dry lube as it's available from Halfords and they're closer to me than the Wurth supplier.

 

A tip I used for my commuting bikes was to use some ACF50 as a top coat to prevent rust forming. I got 36000 miles out of the chain before selling the bike with lots of life left in her. This was used in conjunction with a scottoiler also,not once did I see any rust appear and the bike was used all year round and kept in the rain outside work for 10hrs a day.

 

WD40 is an effective cleaner, which I've used for years to clean my chains, it is not a lubricant though, in fact it's a solvent which will remove the lube already present. It's made up of 80% solvents and 20% light oil, it displaces water and does provide some corrosion protection on metals in the short term, don't use it as a chain lube though (or indeed, any sort of lube!).
The Wurth chain lube seems to be the best based on user reviews, or a scotoiler.

 

Don't spray it directly on the O-rings, that's all. Better to soak a rag with it and wipe the chain clean, then wipe it dry before applying your lube. If you've got the dosh then just buy some proper chain cleaner and make as much mess as you like.

 

Hi, I'm new here! I was just nosing around the posts when I found this thread and I couldn't help but stick my nose in! I'm a repair tech for a medical supply company and we sometimes use wd40 specifically to swell o rings for difficult fitments. WD40 will swell an o ring up to a much larger diameter and thickness the longer you soak it, pretty soon it becomes soft enough to scratch the o ring apart with your thumb nail. Just five minutes is enough to affect an o ring of most materials. We found that an o ring will stay the same size for however long its fitted until its soaked in isopropil, then it will shrink back. I haven't experimented with my chains, so I won't make any firm claims, but I always use a proper chain cleaner just in case. I'll stop interfering now and pop off to the newbie section!

 

+1 on the above. So long as chain not soaked in wd40 then no prob. Cleaned lots of chains this way and has always been fine. You will find differing views on wd40 and could argue all day long about it, but have seen lots of posts on various forums where wd40 is all that has ever been used on the chain. TBH I clean with wd40 and then dry and used Wurtt lube, but I did 1000's of miles my 955 S3 using only wd and no probs.
Cheers,
Andrew.

 

One of my bikes failed a mot for leaking gaskets apart from other stupid silly things that make you very annoyed. Well it wansnt leaking at all it was because in the winter I sprayed wd40 all over the engine followed by acf50 just to keep all the winter muck off. I tried to explain this to the tester along with all the other silly points he picked up on...turned out after being an arse the tester informed me that wd40 can swell rubber etc.....took the bike to another mot station cleaned all the crap of passed first time. But having a rusty chain I would use proper chain cleaner and chain protection product, you don't want a chain snapping on you like it once did to me but that's another story. Failing that I always get the best chain I can for the bike and change them every year regardless of the miles. Chains are like tyres you get what you paid for.

 

Old chains never seemed to rust but my mate had a 636 and a Fazor 100, both brand new and both needing chains in the first year due to looking crap with rusty chains. Both bikes were very well looked after and well lubed. After market chains from B&C fitted and no rust!

 

Thank you randysmudge - saved my typing!. as Zimbo said the best bit about it re: cleaning is that it is mainly solvent and particularly for the first few seconds, more if it's winter/cold. Fantastic for cleaning many things (Brembo gold calipers become a doddle) if used carefully avoiding pads and most rubbers. As also said, COULD be ok for cleaning chains if used sparingly but 'O' rings would become bloated if left saturated for some time. Naughty MOT trick (not advising anyone do the same) :- I have used (solely for 'bloating' purposes) to saturate front suspension seals if they are just beginning to weep and don't have time to change.

 

Unusual to get a severely rusting chain if it is maintained,maybe the sprockets could be causing the problem,it they have been damaged in some way by grit or similar,and have then pitted the chain rollers,or are the side plates corroding too,if so i would be taking that chain back where it came from for a replacement.

 

Nope, it's just cheaper production values and cheaper materials, that's all. Same reason why bikes are getting heavier these days; the cost of production has to get cheaper in order to stay competitive. Such is life.