1200 DVT Rear Brake Issues

You can normally lock the rear on DVT and cause ABS to kick in.

The pedal is too inboard - so maybe you are not pushing hard enough?

I fitted a pedal extender

Of there is air in the system?

 

h


I also find the pedal to inboard, what extender did you fit?

I have looked at bolting some ally onto it and even made a paper template.

Alan

 

That is not right, check for air in the system, as SA states you should easily be able to lock the rear and kick in the ABS

 

it's not a complex issue, so either has to be pads worn out, air in system, or piston in caliper is stuck, whip the wheel off, remove the caliper and take the pads out, then retract piston with G clamp or similar, make sure it moves freely, if it does, bleed the rear caliper and check the pads have loads of meat, but definitely sounds liked something is wrong. Personally, after a week I'd be tempted to see the dealer again.

 

I made one

 

How much to make one for me please @Simon Audi, if you have the inclination that is

 

Sorry - no inclination - I did it while I was visiting a supplier - and had to borrow a milling machine to do it - so its not something I can easily do.

There is a supplier now selling them - posted on her somewhere in another post about brake levers

 

It’s not an adventure thing, it’s a multi thing. They’ve had poor rear brakes all along, it’s only correct bleeding and a mod or two that get it good again. Different fluid and maybe an extra bleed nipple at the ABS unit so that you can bleed it properly. Not sure if the DVT is the same but that’s what you had to do pre DVT.

 

What worked for me was doing a proper bleed once (following the whole procedure which meant getting the caliper off, lifting it higher than the ABS unit, which I have fitted with a bleeder valve and doing the bleeding), then topping with a fluid that has a very high boiling point. I've used the Motul RBF 600 which has a boiling point of 312 deg Celsius (dry, 204 deg wet). It's the best I could find, second only to Castrol's SRF. SRF has a similar dry boiling point but a far superior wet boiling point of 270 deg Celsius. Problem is I can't find it here in Greece and it's bloody expensive elsewhere. I cannot justify giving 50+ quid for a liter, of which I will actually use less than 400ml and throw the rest away. But my rear brake works and it has been working the same from the time I did this. The feel is still awful but it works and it can trigger the ABS, which is the only thing you should be concerned about.

P.S. This applies to the pre DVT model I have, which has all the mods possible (update master cylinder and bleed nipple on ABS). I doubt it's different in the DVT.

 

Both my DVT's (15 and 17) as standard you can activate ABS - only complaint is pedal is too inboard so its difficult to press - especially as I have a twisted foot after a bad break in the leg.

 

No complaints on the rear brake on my '16 DVT... it's been working just fine.
The rear brake on my 1200 Monster is another story though.....

 

The rear brakes are completely different as between the 2010-14 Mk 1 Multi and the 2014-17 DVT Multi. The caliper, master cylinder, hoses, and ABS unit are entirely different parts.

On the Mk 1, the rear brake is notoriously poor and prone to need repeated and frequent bleeding; certain modifications are possible which are improvements but not cures. On the DVT, the rear brake is highly effective and reliable.

If anyone with a DVT has developed a defective rear brake, they should get it fixed as with any other defect.

 

2015 DVT and works good except pedal difficult to reach. About the same as my 2011 BMW rt, abs engages quickly.

 

For me it's air in the system. Can be a right roger hunt to bleed sometimes but I think air is your problem.

 

I've heard of James but had to Google Roger...

 

Is this what you found ?

http://lingomash.com/slang-meanings/10726/slang-meaning-of-roger-hunt