I'm wondering if anyone can through some light on a problem I'm having with a 1098R I'm working on. The dash consistently read BATT and shows 15.1V. The blue main beam light flashes on and the indicators don't work properly. Yet the bike has a Shindengen FH020AA mosfet regulator and reads 14.4V across the battery. So how the hell can the dash read higher than the battery? I'm inclined to think that it must be a earthing issue with the dash. Tomorrow's task will be to check the main loom earth and the connector to the back of the instrument panel but any pointers would be welcome.
When I had a voltage output issue on my 999 it turned out to be an ECU problem caused by water ingress. This had been caused by the left fan cutting through the coolant link pipe and the coolant being sprayed onto the ECU. I can send you a loan ECU to see if that cures it.
Like Chris says, the dash info is fed from the Ecu. If you read the voltage with diagnostics you should see the Ecu is seeing the higher voltage.
Well it's not the ECU. At start up today I measured the battery at 14.3V, the ECU read 14.1V but the dash showed 14.8V. It reads a consistent 0.7V too high. I wonder if it just coincidence that 0.7V is the voltage drop across a semiconductor junction?
If the bike's running and charging OK, what's the problem? The dash readings are always going to be out and pretty unreliable. They're only useful for comparative reasons, like a voltage drop if the bike's been standing without a trickle charger. I realise it should be lower but I wouldn't get too bogged down with it.
Even if the dash is faulty (or on its' way out) then wait for it to fail. Then repair or replace as required.
Could be the dash then. Waiting for it to fail is one option, but not the best. If the higher voltage triggers a “Hi” warning then the dash along with the headlights will shut down. It’s a self protect protocol from over voltage to the electronics.
The symptoms on my 999 were the voltage would rise progressively until it showed a flashing HI on the dash. The bike would run fine with no MILs. A new ECU cured the fault.
The symptoms on this one are much the same except diagnostics shows the right voltage at the ECU. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4V the dash shows 15.1V and throws a wobbler.
