Just recently, I’ve been having an intermittent problem with my indicators not working. There seems to be no pattern, it’s not when the bikes hot or cold etc & I lose all the idiot lights on the dash too, but not the main display. Then all of a sudden they’ll start working again? I have a little knowledge but not much & am guessing at a regulator problem. Any ideas & any quick/cheap fixes guys?
The dash can present those sort of problems when the supply voltage is too high. So, as you suspect, the regulator is probably faulty. Check the voltage across the battery with the engine running. Also check the voltage on the dash It should be less than 15V, ideally 14.4 - 14.6
QUOTE="Derek, post: 1210554, member: 23749"]The dash can present those sort of problems when the supply voltage is too high. So, as you suspect, the regulator is probably faulty. Check the voltage across the battery with the engine running. Also check the voltage on the dash It should be less than 15V, ideally 14.4 - 14.6[/QUOTE] Extact symptoms on my own 1098 - it’s the rectifier/regulator on way out. Thing is the intermittency can show correct voltages when checked but the diodes are starting to short. Chased my problem for around 400 miles and on some occasions worked perfectly followed by no working indicators and all idiot lights- high beam, neutral, oil etc lost. Headlight works, speedo, rev indication just nothing else. Constant monitoring whilst sitting at lights watching the dash readout battery voltage shows 14.1 initially and then starts to back off the to 13.4 volts if you continue to watch. In the end diodes shorted followed by smell of burning and melted connector. Anyway replace with upgraded mosfet unit as runs a lot cooler. Rectifier from internet and cables from a Triumph dealership. Around £100 for rectifier and £8 for cable. Needs some mods to mount but plenty of info on forum. Runs extremely cool and ideal as it sits right next to the exhaust header pipe. If you want to save the three way connector then change before too late.
Just checked my brass spacers again. Forgot I modified them in order to give more space to the fairing as ecu moves out in order to accommodate new regulator which is deeper than original. Finished design is a height of 6mm or 6 x 1mm thick washers. For info the original SCR design runs at around 80 centigrade very hot not helped by exhaust manifold and basically zero air cooling. I attached a small tiny tag temperature data-logger to the mosfet device and ran it for over 200miles. The device never exceded 35 centigrade even next to exhaust manifold. Some guys have relocated into areas of circulating air currents but I’m fine where it is and cables etc don’t need modified and direct fit. I attached the regulator to plate with heat sink paste which aids thermal conductivity. One guy just drilled new holes on backing plate to fix new regulator which I’m sure would be fine. Always tend to over engineer things but that’s just me.
