Hi all, Went to start my 2012 1199 this evening, got the usual fuel prime, hit the starter button and the starter sounded normal. When she fired she was off a cylinder and then started running rough, stalled a short time later. Probably happened over 10 seconds. Ignition off and on, got the fuel prime, on hitting the starter she cranked as normal then started backfiring almost immediately and the fuel reserve light started flashing on the dash and continued throughout until I took my finger off the button. Have attempted starting a few more times and same result. I had just filled up with fresh fuel from a Gerry can, fuel level was low in the bike before this. Fuel is good and Gerry was clean. Anybody had similar issues/symptoms to the above before I go digging deeper? Sounds like a fuel issue to me given I’ve just put fuel in the tank. Maybe pushed dirt or gunk in bottom of tank past the tank outlet? But asking here first. Any help much appreciated.
I had a post on here the other day for my 899, where it was running rough and down to wone cylinder when the water tem got to 60c and above. Then it wouldn't start at all. I dont recall the fuel light coming on but that might be the battery getting low from cranking it over. When were the plugs last changed? Mine had done about 9k but were hte originals from a 2015 bike (I suspect). Good luck and hope you can get it running.
Hi Pauljex, what was your fix? Similar symptoms in ways. Plugs are originals I’d imagine, only 4k on bike and were not done before I purchased it 4 years ago. Could it be something as simple as plugs? It ran fine a few days previous when I took it out for a quick blast. Havnt changed plugs on any pani ( previously had a 899) so not sure how much of a job this is on the bike. Thanks
Hey @Lindsay McConnell - the fix for mine was changing the plugs. I tried changing the HT leads and coil packs by process of elimination, both easy enough to get access too. But it was always the vertical cylinder that was mis-firing. With a new plug, it worked & started the first time but, I still got an intermittent misfire when riding. Maybe once every 10 minutes, so I have changed the horizontal plug as well. I did the water pump at the same time so haven't been out on it since and not the MOT has run out. Just be careful as the battery will die if it's not being charged. To change the plugs for the V cylinder is easy, the fuel tank off and it's very visible and accessible. The H cylinder however is a bigger job. I had to remove the front mud guard, the front surrounds, drain coolant, loosen radiators, remove rad covers, and then there is an access panel between the upper and lower radiator. There is a link on the forum telling you how to do it somewhere. FYI I measured the gap on my old plugs and they were 0.95mm. Supposed to be 0.7mm so they were well used. My plugs were about £18 each from Opie oils. FWIW, mine was running fine before I put it away for winter. I started it up every 6 weeks or so and got it to 103C when fans kicked it. One day it was running fine then just died.... Same fuel etc. So it's certainly possible because it was the case for mine and several others from reading various forums. The other option is to read the fault codes using MelcoDiag - Mine had none.
Here is the thread I started in case it heps you https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/wont-start-running-on-one-cylinder.95093/
Much appreciate your reply Paul, Those symptoms and conditions sound very similar to mine, how I treated bike over winter etc. I have ordered 2 plugs just now so should get looking at it during the weekend. I have melcodiag but havnt had a minute yet to see if there’s any errors logged, but if you’re saying a dud spark plug won’t log then that’s maybe a good and bad thing ie likely the plug is at fault.
Any time. The people on here were helpful to me, so giving back. Sounds like your plugs could well be surrounded by carbon where it runs rich on tick over. You might be able to get away with giving them a wire brush then a good hot run out but new ones will probably be wise if you can change them yourself. I recently deleted all the links I was using, but found this one in my history, see post #10 for the steps from someone else. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/spark-plug-change.70567/ You will need a very long bar to get access to the H cylinder plug. Here is the cover behind the front wheel: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bW7NXbkrc3yf1HcN6 The bike in pieces getting access to the front plug: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fygDKpViJg9vK4Lk9 My concoction of spanners to get to the plug: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGqNMQzaqzvddbFC8 Expect some cuts Just to confirm, the plugs didnt register as a fault in melcodiag.
brilliant, thank you for the info and pics this is a great help for jumping straight to the plugs. Hopefully getting to that H plug doesn’t take too long! Will report back once the plugs arrived and I get fitted!
Just a guess, but if the plugs are not the issue (worth changing anyway as an inexpensive service item) could it be a blocked injector on the failed cylinder ?
...thinking about it the backfire is pointing towards plugs... especially if you do the "winter-warm-up" ?
Hi all, In the middle of this. Any issues in starting bike for a few seconds without coolant to check new plugs have resolved the issue? Would hate to refit and fill radiator to have to drain and take it off again.
Fwiw, when I changed my plugs, I torqued it up and made sure the connections were good, I didn't start it without coolant. Fyi, You have to start the engine once the coolant is in to bleed the system. If it were me, I'd check everything twice then connect the rads and start it with coolant in but before you put it all back together...
But I agree with serjames, a few second should be ok without coolant remember these things get hot quickly.
I am actually at work Paul Was out in the garage a few hours this morning before work to dismantle. Will get working on her tonight hopefully!
