Hi folks, Couple of tech questions. Can anyone tell me if the front wheel can be removed without a paddock stand, just using the center stand only and if possible can both front and rear be removed at the same time with just the use of the center stand? It's something I had no issue doing on my Triumph Tiger so hoping I can do the same for a tyre change. Second question, I've read mixed reports about the front Brembo calipers being difficult to remove past the front wheel as the clearance is tight. Can anyone say yay or nay as to whether they can be taken off for cleaning with the wheel still on and also what the torque setting is for doing the main bolts up. Thanks in advance.
I have taken both wheels off using just the centre stand but you will need to prop the front of the bike up, or weight the rear, to balance it. The calipers are difficult to remove but can be done, first put some tape on the wheel rims to avoid damage when removing them, make sure the pads are pushed right back in the caliper to give maximum clearance, you can then "roll" the caliper over the disc, this motion will also help to push the pads and pistons back, all done with the wheel still in place. I use the following toque settings on my 1260S and nothings fallen off so far: Rear Wheel 230nm Front wheel axle 63nm Front axle pinch bolts 10nm Front calipers 45nm Hope this helps.
Fantastic. Thanks for the quick reply. My dealer said the front couldn't be removed but I guess he didn't think I had a center stand fitted? When i get the tyres changed i like to clean everything up, callipers ect at the same time.
You can get the calipers off, it just needs a careful touch, as the wife tells me. The pads need to be pushed back as far as you can and then if you're really careful, you can get them off without marking the rims. Taping the rims up with insulation tape gives me a little piece of mind.
Duct tape on the rims and around the brake line unions (which are the parts that will cause damage to the rims. When reassembling remember to apply the front brake a few times before and hold the front brake on while torqueing up the calliper bolts (45 Nm +/- 5%). There is a procedure for front wheel spindle and pinch bolts, see @Simon Audi 's post https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/front-wheel-assembly.64928/#post-1193186
Hi Andy, Using just the center stand? Perhaps if you have ample front wheel clearance and braced adequately. However, having a front stand is the most efficient route and will save you money and aggravation in the long run. The callipers can be removed while on the wheel. You must twist them gently to pry open the pistons within. Notice the painter's tape. BTW, I had some on the wheels also prior to removing the callipers to prevent nicks. Refitting the front wheel is always the same. 1)Lube axle 2)Tighten the axle nut ( on the captive leg) while leaving the free leg un-torqued. 3)Bounce the forks to settle the axle in place 4)Torque to specs on both sides (Any pinch bolts are always done 1-2-1) 5)Squeeze the brakes and hold (to align them) while tightening the calliper bolts 1-2-1
