I changed tyres on my 1260s MTS yesterday. Getting the front callipers off without scratching the rim was quite a struggle. With the larger diameter disks and M50 callipers on the S model there was no way that they would lift straight out. Having unbolted the callipers moving them back and up they hit the rim before the pads cleared the disk. The only way I managed to remove them was by rocking the callipers on the disk to push the pads/pistons back a far as possible. I could then just pivot them outwards enough to remove them. Even then the head of the double banjo bolt on the left has to scrape across the rim. The other option was to lossen the disk bolts or bleed the lines and remove the banjos. The workshop manual (1200 DVT) wasn't any help. Very light on detail. Am I missing some trick here or is this job that awkward?
Nope they are a right bastard to get off, especially the side with the lines fitment. My wheels were chipped by a tyre fitter... I used a rage on the rim, think enough that I could be quite aggressive on getting it off but not go thru the cloth. And patience!
It certainly isn't easy, but can be done. I used insulation tape on both the wheel and the caliper and made sure the pistons were as far back in the caliper as I could manage.
OK, thanks for the clarification, not missing a trick then (apart from gaffa tape on the rim or caliper, good idea for next time). Also a PITA that you need to remove the silencer to give enough clearance for rear wheel removal. Far easier to do than the MV though which is a relief. My new MAX2H tyre changing kit from Germany worked a treat and will allow me to change tyres at will rather than have the hassle to taking my wheels to Hereford and paying for the service. On the face of it an expensive purchase but in the past I've always changed tyres ahead of any big tour and always wound up with part worn tyres in the shed. Good intentions to re-use these but they've always wound up at the dump as it's too much hassle. Now I should be able to get the full life out of my tyres as a new set of sports touring rubber will last enough for two trips, the part worns can be re-used between. That's the plan anyway... lets see if I can be arseed to put it into practice...
If the pistons are pushed all the way back (with whatever method you choose) the calipers will twist out without scratching.
"lets build a bike with a single sided swingarm' Ducati designer said, 'looks great, less fuss in lining up chains, and easy access to change the wheel' Ducat designer said. Clearly not the same designer as the exhaust one!!
They are a real sod and all of the advice given about tape on the wheel rims and ensuring the pistons are pushed back, allowing the calipers to be twisted outwards, is absolutely essential. Also a word in the ear of the guys fitting your new tyres, assuming you don't do it yourself, is also a pre-requisite, so that they know any damage will result in rage and a future discount for any abuse caused.... I know as this has happened to me with a previous MTS, much to my considerable annoyance. It did reduce the price of the next set by £50 though, which slightly eased the pain
One of the multitude of reasons why I have taken the plunge a bought the tyre fitting and balancing kit. Didn't do any damage yesterday as I took my time and worked out that the pistons needed pushing back, it was close and there was contact albeit light between the left calliper banjo bolt and the rim. Will be adding a layer of gaffa tape next time around I'll also be a lot quicker now I know the pitfalls in the process and ways around them. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, much appreciated
If you haven’t already, find a way to heat the tyres for easier fitting. I use warmers but sitting in the sun can help! Warmer they are, easier to fit.
They certainly are a pain to remove, as others have said always use gaffa tape on the rim, I found the easiest way was to try and roll the caliper over the disc, doing so pushes the pistons back far enough to clear the rim, it's all about technique! Seems like you managed OK though . See you in a next week .
Yep, had read that. No sun worth bothering with yesterday. The MAX2H kit worked well though warm tyres might have made it a bit easier. With some tyre fitting jollop both front and rear first bead went on just pushing by hand. 2nd bead was a bit more work and required the fitting/removing arm. Impressed with how well it works. I don't have tyre warmers, no need, don't ride on track much if at all. Out on test run at the moment, all good. Just stopped for a coffee to let them cool off before another go
Not to everyone’s taste or pocket but my solution was to have 320mm discs fitted to my V4 at the first service. The Marchesini mag aloys are way too vulnerable and expensive to damage them removing the caliper. Andy
When I first did a tyre change on my 1200 I scratched my head rather than my rim and looked on this forum for advice. Duct tape on the rim and twist the caliper (after first removing the master cylinder cap) to push the pistons back enough to remove the caliper. That tyre changing kit looks at nice piece of kit however the 390euro price tad is a bit salty! As Phil says see you next week. Desperado
